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Sweden / Skåne

Linnérundan – Family-friendly hiking in the Vattenriket in Kristianstad

The hike on the Linnérund was done in connection with a press trip to Kristianstad with Visit Kristianstad, but all thoughts and opinions are, as usual, my own.

A stone's throw from the center of Kristianstad is a wetland area where all life revolves around Helge å. Throughout history, Helgeån's water has affected Kristianstad and its meadows with its large floods, and ever since the 18th century, people have tried to tame the erratic water flow in order to create more fields and more area for housing. It wasn't until 30 years ago that people stopped using the area as a landfill and instead began to realize the area's unique characteristics. Slowly but surely, the area has once again become the Everglades-like waterland that Water kingdom is today – a unique and Unesco-protected biosphere reserve.

Naturum in the Water Kingdom
Naturum Water Kingdom

Family-friendly Linen round

To be able to experience the Water Kingdom and the wetland area in a simple way The linen round. as 6 kilometer long walking loop/hiking trail which starts and ends in Vattenriket's visitor center Naturum. Although the Linnérund is both easily accessible and family-friendly, it is not always available. The hiking trail is, like everything else in the Water Kingdom, very much affected by the Helgeån's water level. If the water levels are higher than 1,3 meters above sea level, the Linnérund's paths are covered in water and impassable, so it is important to check today's water levels before heading out into the area.

Today when we head out on the Linnérund, the water level is 0,36 meters above sea level, so it will be a perfect (and dry) hike, on an absolutely perfect September day. The Helgeån usually floods during the spring winter and my mother-in-law has told me about how in the winters when she was a child she skated over the water-covered fields. At most, the water level in Helge å has risen 2,24 meters above sea level. It happened in 2002. Then even parts of central Kristianstad and Tivoli Park were under water.

Water-filled boats along the Linnerundan in Vattenriket
Rose hips at Naturum in the Water Kingdom
Outdoor museum along the Linnerundan
Kanalhuset with its outdoor museum

Kanalhuset's outdoor museum

We park the car at Tivoli Park and start walking the Linnérund counterclockwise from Naturum. We pass rows of overflowing rose hips before reaching the first stop of the walk – The canal house. An outdoor museum and birdwatching tower that briefly tells about the area's history and wildlife. In the glass cases, the area's bird life is shown through well-carved wooden figures, and the paintings on the wall show important years in Kristianstad's history.

Kristianstad was founded in 1614 by the Danish king Christian IV on this spot precisely because of Helge å and its wetlands. From here, boats could easily get out into the Baltic Sea, while the wetland served as a protection for the vulnerable city. Although Kristianstad was built as a neat fort with a moat, the threats were great. Dangerous Swedes ravaged the area. With the peace of Roskilde in 1658, Kristianstad fell into Sweden's hands and a new era began for the city. In 1750, Kristianstad had Skåne's largest port, with large international trade. It feels strange to think that large sailing ships once sailed here in Helge å, when today it is almost only possible to get around by rowing boat.

The water kingdom in the morning sun
Walk along the Linnérund
Wooden bridges over the water kingdom

Helge å is completely still today and from the night's rain only a layer of ice and sparkling water drops on the leaves of the trees remains. The hiking trail continues into thick willow thickets, over wide wooden slats on stilts. The wooden fences are incredibly well-maintained and easy to walk on, and walking on the wooden fences is no problem either for us or for the dog.

Along the Linnérund are small signs with QR codes that open up interesting audio stories about the exact place you are. The stories are often around three minutes and well worth listening to. It almost feels a bit luxurious to be able to get a guided tour on our own terms. Listen whenever you want. Turn off when you want.

Rosehips in the autumn sun along the Linnérund
Wooden poles along the Linnérund
Listen to information along the Linnérund

Isternäset nature reserve

We pass over a bridge over a major highway and now enter the nature reserve Isterneset. Isternäset is a large coastal meadow, with a bird lake and lots of livestock. The bird lake is created when the meadows overflow and every spring and autumn the lake is filled with birds. Today when we are here, the lake is filled with migratory birds heading south. There are so many birds that the sound is almost deafening. Mainly it seems to be geese taking a break here on the beach meadow, but also a flock with some smaller waders has besieged the lake.

Some bird watchers stand completely still and look through their giant binoculars. I try to zoom in with my camera, but I don't have a chance to see what kind of birds it is. It doesn't help that I go up on the birdwatching platform, here you need a little more substantial stuff. I can't help but feel a little sad to see all these birds leave us for this year. A farewell not only for the birds, but also for the summer.

Migratory birds on Isternäset's beach meadows
Observation tower at Isternäser
Migratory birds over the Isternäset
Observation tower at Isternäset

Herds of grazing cows line the trail over the Isternäset. Here the dog must be leashed and you must not take the dog out into the pastures. This section is the one that first floods at high water levels in the Helge å, then you have to follow the "high water trail" to pass over the meadows.

You don't need any special hiking equipment to walk along the Linnérund, most people who walk here just wear comfortable shoes. The section here across Isternäset is particularly easy to walk and is also suitable for prams.

Low tide over the Isternäset
The Skåneleden runs through parts of the Linnérund
You pass by cow pastures across the Isternäset

Before we get to Lillö, we pass by Helge å again. It is so incredibly mirror-like today and the surface almost looks like it has a thin film of ice. The shiny surface makes it impossible to see any fish today. Helge å is one of the most species-rich rivers in Sweden, with as many as 38 known species of fish. One of the most interesting species is the moth. The catfish is a protected species and may not be caught, but if you do happen to catch a catfish, you should immediately release it back into the water.

Fishing is popular in Helge å
Helge å by Lillö along the Linnérund
Weekend at Lillö

Lillö castle ruins and royal estate

Now we arrive at Lillö – a small island in the middle of the wetland. Once upon a time, a large, white, stately castle stood here on Lillö and looked out over Isternäset. Today, only the remains of the foundation remain. It is believed that the castle was built in the 13th century and for a period in the 15th century was home to Ivar Axelsson Tott, who from here ruled over Gotland and parts of the Baltic coast.

Many wars were fought during this time on Scanian land and the castle was often burned down, but always rebuilt. Until 1658. At the peace of Roskilde, the Swedish king Karl X gave the order to demolish the castle, to prevent the Danes from being able to take over the castle again and regain Kristianstad. Then the castle fell into oblivion. Not until the 1940s did the castle see the light of day again, when it was excavated by archaeologists from a mound of earth.

Lillö castle ruins along the Linnérund
Lillö castle ruins
Weekend in the Water Kingdom
Red berries along the Linnérund

We walk past the Lillö castle ruins and continue towards Lillö kungsgård, a large and well-kept farm dating back to the 14th century. We have now gone about halfway through the Linnérund and the path starts to turn back towards Kristianstad. It has taken a little longer to walk here than we thought, both because we stopped for a while and looked at the birds on Isternäset and because our little dog found so much exciting things to sniff after the road.

Family-friendly hiking along the Linnérund
Lillö kungsgård along the Linnérund
Lillö kungsgård along the Linnérund

Art, ruins and currant shells

We pass a hill where Härlövsborg once stood. Härlövsborg was probably built during the Scanian War (1675-1679) southeast of Lillö royal court by Charles XI. This was probably a wooden castle, with both moats and drawbridge. It is incredibly difficult to see where the castle has been, but we are guessing that it is kullen as we see before us. When it comes to historical places, you need to have a little imagination. With imagination, even a grassy hill can become a castle.

At the path I suddenly see a stone with a flower carved into it. It turns out to be one of the stones in the artwork Living fossils which can be found at four locations in Kristianstad's Vattenrike. This stone shows one of the characteristic species of the area - field radish. A work of art that really fits in and blends in.

Autumn colors along the Linnérund
Art along the Linen Round

Now we leave the open meadows and walk into a damp deciduous forest, surrounded by small streams. Along the path, large, beautiful currant shells crawl slowly by. The Vinbergsnäkkan is Europe's largest land snail and they can grow up to 10 centimeters long. The snails that slide past us on the path are probably 7-8 centimeters. Pretty big slugs in my eyes.

At the Härlövsborgs bird tower, we cannot resist the temptation to climb up and look out over the Isternäset. Today, however, we only see Kristianstad on the horizon and not any exciting birds. It is definitely a tip to bring binoculars, then you have a much greater chance of seeing some of the area's birds a little closer. But it's always nice to have a lookout tower regardless.

Watercourse along the Linnérund
Currant conch along the Linnérund
Härlövsborg tower along the Linnérund
The linen round is excellent

Back in Naturum

Time flies when you're having fun and suddenly we find ourselves at Naturum again. Outside the Naturum there is a water bar with a water bowl for dogs, where they can rest when their owners enter the Naturum and look at the exhibits. A very nice initiative that our four-legged friend appreciates.

Inside Naturrum, we meet nature guide Sussie, who takes us on a short guided tour to some of Naturum's well-kept and beautiful exhibits. Here we learn about the history of the Water Kingdom and how the floods affect the area. We learn about the otters that live here around Naturum (but which are rarely seen, but usually only tell us that they have been here by pooping on the docks) and about the colorful kingfisher that you can most easily see in winter (when it is not as leafy and green). We also learn that Vattenriket covers less than two per thousand of Sweden's surface, but that here you can find almost 20 percent of all the country's threatened species. Isn't that absolutely amazing? An area that 30 years ago was used as a landfill, has in a few years been transformed into something completely unique to which both flora and fauna are now returning.

We leave the Linnérund and Naturum with a wonderful feeling in our stomachs. Think that we have such unique and exotic nature so easily accessible in Sweden - basically in the middle of Kristianstad!

Naturum Water Kingdom
Break at Naturum Vattenriket
Naturum Water Kingdom

How do I get to Linnérund?

The easiest way is to start the hike at Naturum in central Kristianstad. We hiked counter-clockwise, but it's very well signposted no matter which pattern you choose to walk. The road is very easy to walk and there are no problems with either a dog or a pram.

Map to Naturum Vattenriket (opens in Google maps)

Bear at the water kingdom
Do you want to see more from lovely Scania?

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About the blogger

Travel blogger, gastronaut, photographer and family adventurer with over 55 countries in his luggage. Eva loves trips that include beautiful nature, hiking boots and well-cooked food. On the travel blog Rucksack she takes you to all corners of the world with the help of her inspiring pictures and texts.

4 Comments

  • Daniel | Discovering The Planet
    29 September, 2020 at 22: 31

    Such a great article and, as usual, lovely pictures.

    Reply
    • Eva Gyllenberg
      30 September, 2020 at 22: 10

      Thank you so much Daniela! Beautiful landscapes are easy to photograph 🙂

  • Hanna's creep
    30 September, 2020 at 14: 06

    But wow what a round! Sweden's nature is truly fantastic. It feels incredible that this round is somehow so centrally located. Wonderful pictures you offer!

    Reply
    • Eva Gyllenberg
      30 September, 2020 at 22: 11

      Thank you very much Hanna! <3 It really is a unique area, not many cities can offer a tour like this in the middle of town!

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