Wadi Rum - Desert Adventure in an Otherworldly Landscape - Jordan

The visit to Wadi Rum was made on a press trip together with Jordan Tourism Board and Royal Jordanian Airlines, but all thoughts and opinions are, as usual, my own.

The red sand swirls behind the four-wheel drive as it carries us toward our overnight accommodation. We sit perched on benches at the back of the car, the wind biting my cheeks as we bounce over the dunes. I pull the hood of my windbreaker tighter and grip the sides, eyes scanning the horizon. In the distance, I spot a cluster of sand-colored tent bubbles nestled beneath a towering cliff face—one of many glamping resorts in Wadi Rum, and our home for the night in this majestic desert.

Wadi Rum is a stunning desert landscape in southern Jordan, just a few kilometers from the Saudi Arabian border. In this highland region, Jordan’s arid desert reveals its most breathtaking beauty. The earth is a deeper shade of red, the rocks rise even more majestically, and the nights are a little darker, with stars shining just a bit brighter.

The dramatic rock formations—caves, cliffs, mesas, and natural arches—remind me of the striking red national parks of the Colorado Plateau in Utah, a region I adore and have visited several times. Yet, there’s a stark contrast between the well-organized parks of America and the untamed wilderness of Wadi Rum. Here, the sky feels boundless, and the silence is more profound, almost tangible.

Desert landscapes can often seem harsh and unwelcoming, but Wadi Rum is far from an empty, desolate wasteland. For thousands of years, nomadic people have lived and thrived here. Their history and stories are etched into the landscape, with over 25.000 petroglyphs scattered throughout the area, offering a glimpse into their ancient way of life.

The rock carvings of Wadi Rum depict life in the desert—scenes of hunting, domesticated dromedaries, and wild animals long since extinct. Through various dating techniques applied to the petroglyphs and other remnants, it has been confirmed that people lived here as early as 10.000 years BC, around the same time the late Stone Age began to take shape in the Nordic region. Wadi Rum is truly a unique and historically significant area, now safeguarded as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The modern Bedouin

The wind howls outside, but inside the striped Bedouin tent, it’s warm, still, and inviting. The thick walls are woven from sheep and camel wool, and hand-knotted rugs cover the ground. Smoke rises from the crackling fire at the center of the tent, while hot copper pots prepare to serve us a soothing cup of tea.

The word "Bedouin" derives from the Arabic term bedwa, meaning "desert dweller." Over half of Jordan’s population traces its roots to Bedouin heritage, although the nomadic lifestyle has evolved over the centuries to fit modern society. Many families now reside in Wadi Rum Village, near schools and accessible drinking water. The traditional woolen tents have given way to concrete houses, and dromedaries have been replaced by four-wheel drive Japanese pickup trucks. Yet, there are still families in Wadi Rum who continue to live the classic nomadic life, tending to their sheep, goats, and dromedaries. Despite the changes, the Bedouin spirit—embodied in their hospitality, traditions, and way of life—endures, from poetry to music and family bonds.

We are served steaming tea from the copper pots as the eldest man in the tent gently pulls out a stringed instrument and begins to sing. The instrument, called rabadarabada, is made from a wooden box covered in goat skin and strung with horsetail hair—the world’s oldest string instrument. The words flow melodiously, and the song, along with its haunting notes, fills the tent. Bedouin songs are often poetic tales of love and life, woven with stories of their rich traditions and deep family bonds.

Our guide helps translate our questions into Arabic. The men's wives are at home, tending to the family, and it is the women who weave the thick woolen walls of the tents. The old family traditions remain strong, even as modern village life becomes more prevalent.

Jeep safari at sunset

One of the most popular activities in Wadi Rum is the sunset jeep safari. We’re given the choice between the fast car or the slightly slower one. I opt for the flatbed of the slower vehicle, though it’s unclear whether it truly was slower, as our car ends up leading the way.

The caravan of white Toyota pickups glides effortlessly across the hidden paths of the desert. The sand allows the vehicles to slide smoothly, and we race over the dunes at such speed that it sends a thrill rippling through the pit of our stomachs.

We stop at various points to take in the stunning rock formations and valleys. The wind gently sweeps the sand before us, forming a mist-like veil across the lunar landscape, framed by the towering sandstone and granite cliffs.

In Jordan, Wadi Rum is often called the "Moon Valley," and it's no surprise that this otherworldly landscape has served as the backdrop for several recent space adventures. Films like Dune, The Martian, Star Wars, and Prometheus have all been shot here. With its striking red terrain, it’s easy to see why this place feels more fitting for movies set on Mars—the red planet.

We halt the cars in the midst of nowhere, waiting for the sunset. The rocks and mountains form a watercolor masterpiece, layers of yellow and pink blending together. The air is sharply cold, and the sun slips away quickly. It’s a fleeting moment of beauty, gone too soon for my liking.

Glamping in the desert night

I’m glad we checked into our accommodation earlier in the day, and thankful for the flashlight on my phone, or else I’d likely be struggling to find both my tent bubble and the light switches. This is no ordinary tent—inside, there’s a bathroom with a shower and toilet, and a large double bed. Some tents even offer Wi-Fi. It’s glamping at its finest.

A simple buffet dinner is served in the camp’s main building, and despite the night still feeling young, I collapse into bed. The wind has picked up, and in the gusts, it almost feels as though my sleeping bubble might lift off the ground—though I reassure myself it’s just my imagination.

I barely have time to turn on the fan heater and switch off the light before a strong gust of wind causes the power to cut out. I might have found it a little unsettling to be alone in a storm, in total darkness, in a tent in the middle of the desert. But of course, I’d never admit that.

Fifteen minutes later, the power returns, and I barely feel the warm air from the heater on my face before I drift off into a deep sleep.

The next morning, I wake to the soft light of sunrise. Through the tent’s window, I watch as the desert is bathed in a breathtaking glow. I linger in bed for a while, taking in the light show from the front row. It’s hard to put into words the beauty of this desolation. The car tracks from yesterday have been erased by the wind, and there’s not a bird to be heard. The cold lingers, even with the sun’s first rays warming the horizon.

We enjoy a simple breakfast before checking out of our space camp, eager to experience the desert one last time before we leave.

Dromedaries

Dromedaries are the ships of the desert, dependable creatures perfectly adapted to the harsh desert climate. For thousands of years, they have been essential to the Bedouins, who treat them with the utmost respect and affection. Their milk is rich in protein, their wool is woven into fabrics, and they are capable of carrying both people and goods across vast distances. A good dromedary is considered a valuable investment, often worth as much as a small car.

Our final stop before leaving Wadi Rum is a dromedary ride. I've ridden camels before, but the only thing I recall is the challenge of staying in the saddle when the dromedary rises to its feet.

I find a small, reassuring dromedary and stand next to it, speaking to it as I would to my dog: "Nice dromedary. Good boy." However, the dromedary's handler has different ideas and motions for me to move to the front of the line, where the lead camel awaits.

I attempt to gauge my new dromedary’s temperament. It gazes at me intently with wide eyes, its long eyelashes fluttering ever so slightly. There's no doubt — I am not the one in charge here.

I climb into the saddle, and the dromedary rises swiftly beneath me. My four-legged companion leads the way with the owner, while the others follow in the caravan. Just as I begin to find my rhythm, my dromedary seems to lose his. His attention drifts. His gaze flickers, and suddenly, with a sharp exhale, he expels a large air-filled sack of skin from his mouth, producing a sound like a bubbling drain. The moment is over in an instant, leaving me bewildered. Before I can process what just happened, a dromedary further back in the line responds with the same strange noise. I realize I've unwittingly become caught in a power struggle between two male dromedaries. My grip on the saddle tightens, knuckles turning white.

Dromedaries can live up to 50 years, can run 65 km/h and can survive without food and water for several weeks.

We pass a small field of flowers blossoming in the desert, where delicate blue blooms struggle to survive in this dry, rain-starved landscape. My dromedary stops, lowers its long neck, and nibbles a flower, savoring the rare treat. It walks a few more steps and consumes another, pausing each time to inhale deeply, as if appreciating the fragrance, much like Ferdinand the bull. The other dromedaries eye him enviously. They can’t reach the flowers, tethered as they are to each other in the caravan.

The ride passes quickly, despite the slow pace of the dromedaries. A little unsteady, I dismount from the saddle. Ending my visit to Wadi Rum with a dromedary ride feels like the perfect way to conclude my time in this otherworldly, breathtaking landscape.

How do I visit to Wadi Rum?

Wadi Rum is located in southern Jordan, just XNUMX kilometres south of Amman. This vast desert spans XNUMX km², roughly the size of half of Öland. To fully experience the area's iconic sights, you’ll need at least a full day, and staying the night offers the perfect opportunity to watch the sunset and gaze at the star-filled sky. We explored Wadi Rum during a tour, which seems to be a popular way to discover the wonders of this remarkable country.

Keep in mind that Wadi Rum experiences hot summers and cold winters. When we visited in March, the weather was perfect for a windproof jacket with a fleece layer underneath. I would’ve also appreciated gloves, as it gets quite chilly when riding on the jeep's flatbed. Summers can easily hit 40°C, so the best times to visit are during the spring and autumn, when the temperatures are milder and more comfortable.

We stayed on Hasan Zawaideh Camp, a separate post about this experience is planned.

What would I do differently if I went here again?

Wadi Rum is home to several iconic cliffs, mountains, and stone arches, but to fully experience these landmarks, you'll need to book a longer jeep tour than the one we took. Be sure to ask which sites are included in your tour before booking, so you don’t miss out on any of the places you’re hoping to see.