Wadi Rum - Desert Adventure in an Otherworldly Landscape - Jordan

Wadi Rumโ€™s crimson dunes provide a thrilling desert adventure set in a surreal, otherworldly landscape. Spend the night in a glamping igloo beneath the stars and explore the areaโ€™s unique ecosystem, either on dromedaries or by four-wheel drive.

The visit to Wadi Rum was made on a press trip together with Jordan Tourism Board and Royal Jordanian Airlines, but all thoughts and opinions are, as usual, my own.

The red sand swirls behind the four-wheel drive as it carries us toward our overnight accommodation. We sit perched on benches at the back of the car, the wind biting my cheeks as we bounce over the dunes. I pull the hood of my windbreaker tighter and grip the sides, eyes scanning the horizon. In the distance, I spot a cluster of sand-colored tent bubbles nestled beneath a towering cliff faceโ€”one of many glamping resorts in Wadi Rum, and our home for the night in this majestic desert.

View from the back of a four-wheel drive car driving in the Wadi Rum desert
Ten bubble hotels in the desert under a high cliff in Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum is a stunning desert landscape in southern Jordan, just a few kilometers from the Saudi Arabian border. In this highland region, Jordanโ€™s arid desert reveals its most breathtaking beauty. The earth is a deeper shade of red, the rocks rise even more majestically, and the nights are a little darker, with stars shining just a bit brighter.

The dramatic rock formationsโ€”caves, cliffs, mesas, and natural archesโ€”remind me of the striking red national parks of the Colorado Plateau in Utah, a region I adore and have visited several times. Yet, thereโ€™s a stark contrast between the well-organized parks of America and the untamed wilderness of Wadi Rum. Here, the sky feels boundless, and the silence is more profound, almost tangible.

Rock carvings in sandstone in the desert

Desert landscapes can often seem harsh and unwelcoming, but Wadi Rum is far from an empty, desolate wasteland. For thousands of years, nomadic people have lived and thrived here. Their history and stories are etched into the landscape, with over 25.000 petroglyphs scattered throughout the area, offering a glimpse into their ancient way of life.

The rock carvings of Wadi Rum depict life in the desertโ€”scenes of hunting, domesticated dromedaries, and wild animals long since extinct. Through various dating techniques applied to the petroglyphs and other remnants, it has been confirmed that people lived here as early as 10.000 years BC, around the same time the late Stone Age began to take shape in the Nordic region. Wadi Rum is truly a unique and historically significant area, now safeguarded as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Fire rocks in the desert of Wadi Rum
Sunrise over the desert and a green plant in the Jordan desert

The modern Bedouin

The wind howls outside, but inside the striped Bedouin tent, itโ€™s warm, still, and inviting. The thick walls are woven from sheep and camel wool, and hand-knotted rugs cover the ground. Smoke rises from the crackling fire at the center of the tent, while hot copper pots prepare to serve us a soothing cup of tea.

The word "Bedouin" derives from the Arabic term bedwa, meaning "desert dweller." Over half of Jordanโ€™s population traces its roots to Bedouin heritage, although the nomadic lifestyle has evolved over the centuries to fit modern society. Many families now reside in Wadi Rum Village, near schools and accessible drinking water. The traditional woolen tents have given way to concrete houses, and dromedaries have been replaced by four-wheel drive Japanese pickup trucks. Yet, there are still families in Wadi Rum who continue to live the classic nomadic life, tending to their sheep, goats, and dromedaries. Despite the changes, the Bedouin spiritโ€”embodied in their hospitality, traditions, and way of lifeโ€”endures, from poetry to music and family bonds.

Three copper cauldrons on fire
Bedouin playing the rababa

We are served steaming tea from the copper pots as the eldest man in the tent gently pulls out a stringed instrument and begins to sing. The instrument, called rabadarabada, is made from a wooden box covered in goat skin and strung with horsetail hairโ€”the worldโ€™s oldest string instrument. The words flow melodiously, and the song, along with its haunting notes, fills the tent. Bedouin songs are often poetic tales of love and life, woven with stories of their rich traditions and deep family bonds.

Our guide helps translate our questions into Arabic. The men's wives are at home, tending to the family, and it is the women who weave the thick woolen walls of the tents. The old family traditions remain strong, even as modern village life becomes more prevalent.

Three Bedouins in a tent make coffee in copper kettles

Jeep safari at sunset

One of the most popular activities in Wadi Rum is the sunset jeep safari. Weโ€™re given the choice between the fast car or the slightly slower one. I opt for the flatbed of the slower vehicle, though itโ€™s unclear whether it truly was slower, as our car ends up leading the way.

The caravan of white Toyota pickups glides effortlessly across the hidden paths of the desert. The sand allows the vehicles to slide smoothly, and we race over the dunes at such speed that it sends a thrill rippling through the pit of our stomachs.

Car tracks in the sand in the desert and a car in the distance
Two white four-wheel drive cars in the desert with a person in front.

We stop at various points to take in the stunning rock formations and valleys. The wind gently sweeps the sand before us, forming a mist-like veil across the lunar landscape, framed by the towering sandstone and granite cliffs.

In Jordan, Wadi Rum is often called the "Moon Valley," and it's no surprise that this otherworldly landscape has served as the backdrop for several recent space adventures. Films like Dune, The Martian, Star Wars, and Prometheus have all been shot here. With its striking red terrain, itโ€™s easy to see why this place feels more fitting for movies set on Marsโ€”the red planet.

Rocks and stones in desert landscape
White car goes down a steep sand dune in the desert

We halt the cars in the midst of nowhere, waiting for the sunset. The rocks and mountains form a watercolor masterpiece, layers of yellow and pink blending together. The air is sharply cold, and the sun slips away quickly. Itโ€™s a fleeting moment of beauty, gone too soon for my liking.

Sunset in the desert
Sunset in the desert

Glamping in the desert night

Iโ€™m glad we checked into our accommodation earlier in the day, and thankful for the flashlight on my phone, or else Iโ€™d likely be struggling to find both my tent bubble and the light switches. This is no ordinary tentโ€”inside, thereโ€™s a bathroom with a shower and toilet, and a large double bed. Some tents even offer Wi-Fi. Itโ€™s glamping at its finest.

A simple buffet dinner is served in the campโ€™s main building, and despite the night still feeling young, I collapse into bed. The wind has picked up, and in the gusts, it almost feels as though my sleeping bubble might lift off the groundโ€”though I reassure myself itโ€™s just my imagination.

I barely have time to turn on the fan heater and switch off the light before a strong gust of wind causes the power to cut out. I might have found it a little unsettling to be alone in a storm, in total darkness, in a tent in the middle of the desert. But of course, Iโ€™d never admit that.

Fifteen minutes later, the power returns, and I barely feel the warm air from the heater on my face before I drift off into a deep sleep.

Sunrise in front of a glamping igloo in the desert
Sunrise through the window from inside a glamping igloo

The next morning, I wake to the soft light of sunrise. Through the tentโ€™s window, I watch as the desert is bathed in a breathtaking glow. I linger in bed for a while, taking in the light show from the front row. Itโ€™s hard to put into words the beauty of this desolation. The car tracks from yesterday have been erased by the wind, and thereโ€™s not a bird to be heard. The cold lingers, even with the sunโ€™s first rays warming the horizon.

We enjoy a simple breakfast before checking out of our space camp, eager to experience the desert one last time before we leave.

Glamping hotel overlooking the desert
Desert cliffs in sunrise in warm light

Dromedaries

Dromedaries are the ships of the desert, dependable creatures perfectly adapted to the harsh desert climate. For thousands of years, they have been essential to the Bedouins, who treat them with the utmost respect and affection. Their milk is rich in protein, their wool is woven into fabrics, and they are capable of carrying both people and goods across vast distances. A good dromedary is considered a valuable investment, often worth as much as a small car.

Camels in a row with a camel wearing a mouth guard
Caravan of dromedaries with their attendant in the desert

Our final stop before leaving Wadi Rum is a dromedary ride. I've ridden camels before, but the only thing I recall is the challenge of staying in the saddle when the dromedary rises to its feet.

I find a small, reassuring dromedary and stand next to it, speaking to it as I would to my dog: "Nice dromedary. Good boy." However, the dromedary's handler has different ideas and motions for me to move to the front of the line, where the lead camel awaits.

Close-up of a dromedary's head

I attempt to gauge my new dromedaryโ€™s temperament. It gazes at me intently with wide eyes, its long eyelashes fluttering ever so slightly. There's no doubt โ€” I am not the one in charge here.

I climb into the saddle, and the dromedary rises swiftly beneath me. My four-legged companion leads the way with the owner, while the others follow in the caravan. Just as I begin to find my rhythm, my dromedary seems to lose his. His attention drifts. His gaze flickers, and suddenly, with a sharp exhale, he expels a large air-filled sack of skin from his mouth, producing a sound like a bubbling drain. The moment is over in an instant, leaving me bewildered. Before I can process what just happened, a dromedary further back in the line responds with the same strange noise. I realize I've unwittingly become caught in a power struggle between two male dromedaries. My grip on the saddle tightens, knuckles turning white.

A camel's head seen from behind from a person riding

Dromedaries can live up to 50 years, can run 65 km/h and can survive without food and water for several weeks.

We pass a small field of flowers blossoming in the desert, where delicate blue blooms struggle to survive in this dry, rain-starved landscape. My dromedary stops, lowers its long neck, and nibbles a flower, savoring the rare treat. It walks a few more steps and consumes another, pausing each time to inhale deeply, as if appreciating the fragrance, much like Ferdinand the bull. The other dromedaries eye him enviously. They canโ€™t reach the flowers, tethered as they are to each other in the caravan.

The ride passes quickly, despite the slow pace of the dromedaries. A little unsteady, I dismount from the saddle. Ending my visit to Wadi Rum with a dromedary ride feels like the perfect way to conclude my time in this otherworldly, breathtaking landscape.

How do I visit to Wadi Rum?

Wadi Rum is located in southern Jordan, just XNUMX kilometres south of Amman. This vast desert spans XNUMX kmยฒ, roughly the size of half of ร–land. To fully experience the area's iconic sights, youโ€™ll need at least a full day, and staying the night offers the perfect opportunity to watch the sunset and gaze at the star-filled sky. We explored Wadi Rum during a tour, which seems to be a popular way to discover the wonders of this remarkable country.

Keep in mind that Wadi Rum experiences hot summers and cold winters. When we visited in March, the weather was perfect for a windproof jacket with a fleece layer underneath. I wouldโ€™ve also appreciated gloves, as it gets quite chilly when riding on the jeep's flatbed. Summers can easily hit 40ยฐC, so the best times to visit are during the spring and autumn, when the temperatures are milder and more comfortable.

We stayed on Hasan Zawaideh Camp, a separate post about this experience is planned.

What would I do differently if I went here again?

Wadi Rum is home to several iconic cliffs, mountains, and stone arches, but to fully experience these landmarks, you'll need to book a longer jeep tour than the one we took. Be sure to ask which sites are included in your tour before booking, so you donโ€™t miss out on any of the places youโ€™re hoping to see.

A dromedary in profile in a mountainous desert
The sand swirls in the desert among dark rocks
Close-up of the sand in the desert
Desert cliffs in backlight at sunrise
Waves in sand in the desert
Desert cliffs in backlight at sunrise
Sunset in the desert
Bedouin tent in the shade in the desert with a white jeep
Three white four-wheel drive cars in a row at sunset in the desert
Green plants that look like dill in the desert
White cars drive in desert dust in Jordan
6 COMMENTS
  1. What a lovely post from this fascinating place!
    A round trip in Jordan including a day in Wadi Rum was our last overseas trip before the pandemic and Jordan became a country we liked incredibly much.
    Thanks for giving us a look back through your beautiful pictures!

    • Thank you for the kind words! Makes me so happy that the post gave you a glimpse of this lovely country. So much history and magically beautiful nature, still completely taken after the trip!

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Travel blogger, gastronaut, photographer and family adventurer with over 60 countries in his luggage. Eva loves trips that include beautiful nature, hiking boots and well-cooked food. On the travel site Rucksack, she takes you to all corners of the world with the help of her inspiring pictures and texts.

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