Volterra โ€“ The alabaster city on the hill in Tuscany

The alabaster city of Volterra became our unplanned Tuscan gem, with both a Roman amphitheater and a fairytale fort.

In ancient Italy, several hundred years before Christ, the Etruscans lived in the Etruscan Empire. An area that today includes parts of northern and central Italy. The Etruscan empire consisted of 12 "capitals", built on hills, surrounded by walls. One of the twelve cities is current Volterra. One of the stops in Tuscany that we didn't plan at all, but which turned out to be a really positive acquaintance.

Volterra from a distance
Volterra looks out over Tuscany

Volterra meets us with an unexpected surprise already at the parking lot. Vallebuona is an archaeological area dating back to the 100s before Christ. Here are the remains of the city's large amphitheater and also the ruins of a large Roman bath. The amphitheater is one of the largest remaining in Italy and at one time 2000 seated visitors could sit here and enjoy the spectacle below. A significant part of the city's population. Many of Vallebuona's white marble Roman columns still stand, gossiping about how beautiful the buildings must have been in their heyday. The ancient Romans undeniably had an eye for beauty.

Roman excavation in Volterra

Once inside the wall, we wander through the small alleys towards the center of the city. Among gelato shops, alabaster sculptors and truffle sellers. Volterra is Tuscany's alabaster city. In the time of the Etruscans, alabaster was used for everything from sculptures to burial urns. From being an important craft in the area, the art was forgotten for several hundred years. Not until the 20th century was the craft picked up again here in Volterra. Today, the alabaster sculptors display small vases and sculptures in their shop windows, and the prices are quite affordable considering that carving alabaster by hand is a time-consuming job. If you want to go shopping, keep in mind that you need to have a few extra kilos in your hand luggage. Alabaster can break quite easily and can be risky in checked luggage.

Volterra has many small shops and alleyways
Volterra's charming alleys

Compared to the other cities we visited in Tuscany, Volterra is unexpectedly free of tourist buses and crowds. This is how I want to experience a medieval town in Tuscany, wandering by myself in a narrow alley.

At the city's main square Priory Square is the oldest town hall in Tuscany โ€“ Palazzo dei Priori. Look up before you move on - here is also Praetorian Palace with its odd little pig statue on a shelf at the top of the tower Torre del Procellino.

The square in Volterra
Praetorian Palace

We arrive at a viewpoint with blooming cherry trees (or is it apple trees?) and great views of the sunny landscape. Behind the pink flowers peek Duomo Santa Maria Assunta forward with its dome-shaped roof. For some unfathomable reason, I'm really craving a cherry gelato right now, and fittingly enough, a gelateria is right next door. Today's second gelato. "Not a day without gelato in Italyโ€ is the holiday rule.

We sit down and look out over the landscape. The gelato melts a little faster than expected, but that's a nice problem in the warm spring sun. The whole family is simply having a good time right now.

Spring in Volterra means flowering fruit trees
The view from Volterra
Apple blossom in Volterra

We continue on the small road Via di Castello, a small alley surrounded by walls. On the other side of the wall is a large park with another of the city's excavations - Parco Enrico Fium. Here lie the remains of two temple-like buildings and even the remains of a developed sewage system. A sewage system that was built 2000 years ago. A pretty cool thought. The park doesn't seem open though? Or it's us who can't find the official entrance.

The fortress of Volterra

In front of us looms the great The Medici Fort (Medici Fortress) up. Almost a little fairytale-like and cute, with its round tower and big wall. From here you can see many miles across the expanses of Tuscany. After Florence won over Volterra in a bloody war in the 15th century, this fort was built in 1474. The fort was to protect the production of the nearby alum mines โ€“ an important ingredient in the textile production of Florence.

Almost all the old houses are built in sandstone yellow stone and the new houses are painted in the same color. The washstands are hanging in the backyards, an old gray-haired aunt is on her way to the store to shop and almost all the shutters are closed to prevent the sun and heat from entering. There will be a lot of Tuscany feeling on this unplanned stop. I would have liked to have stayed here a little longer.

We walk towards the car again. Time to steer the bundle towards today's planned destination - San Gimignano.

Roof from above in Volterra
Woman on the street in Volterra

How do I get to Volterra?

Volterra is 8 miles southwest of Florence and 5 miles northwest of Siena. You can take the train to the Saline di Volterra station (about 1 mile from the center of Volterra) and then take the local bus to Volterra. If you come by car, there are plenty of parking spaces north of the city wall. All parking spaces are outside the city walls.

Map (opens in Google maps)

Nice little houses in Volterra
Restaurant in Volterra

Read more about everything from history to parking in Volterra on the official site Municipality of Volterra. If you want to learn more about alabaster, you can visit the Guarnacci Museum (historical museum with, among other things, over 600 old urns) or Ecomuseo dell'Alabastro (museum only about alabaster).

Want to read more of my travel tips? Do not forget to like Rucksack on Facebook!

Roman excavation in Volterra
Roman excavation in Volterra

Travelers' Map is loading ...
If you see this after your page is loaded completely, leafletJS files are missing.

LEAVE AN ANSWER

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here

Travel blogger, gastronaut, photographer and family adventurer with over 60 countries in his luggage. Eva loves trips that include beautiful nature, hiking boots and well-cooked food. On the travel site Rucksack, she takes you to all corners of the world with the help of her inspiring pictures and texts.

Artiklar report

Sestri Levante - The stop on the road that became something more - Italy

Sestri Levante was supposed to be just a stop on the road, but the city turned out to be something more. Midway between Portofino and Cinque Terre, between luxury and mass tourism. An oasis to return to.

Driving in Italy - 9 tips for a smooth car holiday

Are you going to drive in Italy? What might be good to know before you hit the road? Here are my 9 best tips on things to keep in mind when driving in Italy - everything about tolls, road signs, parking and renting a car!

Hotel Vis ร  Vis in Sestri Levante - Hotel review - Italy

We have stayed at Hotel Vis ร  Vis in Sestri Levante, which offered both big pluses - but also big minuses.

Pienza - Pecorino and Palace of the Pope's Perfect City - Italy

On a hill in the most Tuscan Tuscany, lies the city of Pienza. Here, among sheep and Renaissance palaces, we found a visionary pope and a really tasty cheese.

Photo album from Florence - Italy

One of the world's most beautiful cities deserves to be shown off with a few more pictures. Food markets and courtyards, gardens and viewpoints. Here comes a photo bonanza of 40 photos from one of the world's most beautiful cities.

A wonderful road trip in Italy for 14 days - Day plans and itinerary

Are you going on a road trip in Italy? Few countries can offer as much culture and historical sites as Italy. Florence, Venice, Tuscany, Pisa, Cinque Terre - I've summed up our itinerary for a 14-day road trip starting and ending in Milan! Join in!
Even more travel inspiration

Montepulciano - Hills, lanes and Vino Nobile - Italy

In Tuscany's highest town Montepulciano is produced one of Tuscany's best wines - "The noble wine" - Vino Nobile. Here, among Renaissance palaces, cypress alleys and cobbled streets, it's easy to enjoy a little extra of Italy's beauty.

Mini guide to Venice - 8 tips before the trip - Italy

How expensive is Venice really? What do I do with the car? And how do I get around? Here are my top tips - simply a mini guide to Venice!

Sights in Florence - My Top 10 Favorites - Italy

Florence is one of Italy's most popular cities and there is a lot to see and do. Here are my ten favorite sights in Florence - which actually turned out to be largely edible!