Hike the Sentiero del Ponale along Lake Garda – Dramatic Cliffs, Tunnels, and Breathtaking Views

There is something extra wonderful about starting the day early at Lake Garda. As we leave Riva del Garda behind us on foot at sunrise, the lake is mirror-like and the surrounding mountains are bathed in a soft golden light. The first ferries slowly begin to glide across the water and the air is crisp and fresh. We are on our way to explore a section of the hiking trail Sentiero del Ponale - the Ponale Trail – one of the most iconic hiking trails around Lake Garda.

The Sentiero del Ponale (Ponale Trail) is a hiking trail with a facinating history. The road began to be built in 1847, but it took 44 years to complete due to the challenging terrain. Part of the path is carved directly into the mountainside and can be seen from afar as a large scar in the mountain.

The road was originally built to improve the connection between Lake Garda and Valle di Ledro and for many years it was one of the most important transport routes in the region. After the construction of a new tunnel for car traffic at the end of the 20th century, the trail was closed to traffic and since 2004 it has been open only to hikers and cyclists.

The Ponale Trail attracts not only hikers but also cyclists. The wide gravel path is thoughtfully divided into separate lanes – one for walkers, one for cyclists – allowing everyone to share the route safely. Staying in your own lane is especially important on busy weekends, when cyclists often speed past on their way back to Riva del Garda.

Setting out early, as we did, turned out to be a wise choice. This gives you the opportunity to enjoy the views and scenery at a slower pace, while avoiding crowds and giving you a chance to stop at each viewpoint to take in the scenery. Additionally, the sun shines on the trail during the morning, but during the afternoon the trail is shaded by the surrounding mountains.

Small rapids plunge steeply down the mountainside and at every bend new views of the lake open up. The sailboats are slowly starting to hoist their sails in Torbole and the ferries glide across the water. The sun's rays reflect in the lake and give the entire landscape a shimmering light that settles on the retina. Small natural sights that you won't find on any map.

The “newly built” road breaks through the mountain tunnels beneath our feet at several places along the path. It’s crazy to think that the narrow and winding road we are walking on now was the main route for cars until the 90s. It can’t have been a fast or safe road. You can almost hear the cars scraping the rocks and the drivers holding their breath even today.

The trail follows the mountainside in a gentle but steady climb, but it never gets tiring. On one side the cliffs drop almost vertically, and on the other Lake Garda opens up. The cliff faces are mostly bare and the warning signs warn of falling rocks. I don't see anyone hiking with a helmet, although it is recommended.

Along the way there are traces of history and remains of the fortification Tagliata del Ponale from the 19th century. This historic military facility consists of an intricate spiderweb of tunnels and trenches that stretch all the way from the lake up to the path. The entire area is currently closed to the public for security reasons and cannot be visited. But you can always look from a distance.

We choose to turn back at the junction where the path continues up towards Lago di Ledro, as we want to make it back to Riva del Garda for breakfast. With a little more time it would have been nice to walk all the way up to the lake, but it reportedly takes four hours round trip. About two hours more than we have available.

On the walk back to Riva del Garda, each step feels lighter—perhaps thanks to the downhill stretch, or perhaps because the thought of a steaming cup of coffee is irresistible. The morning hike leaves behind memories of dramatic cliffs, historic tunnels, and vistas I’m eager to experience again. And that breakfast coffee? It has never tasted so good.

Important things to keep in mind

Hiking or cycling on the Ponaleleden requires some caution. The path is not technically difficult, but it runs close to steep mountain sides and can be prone to rockfall. The path is also rocky with relatively large rocks and you should always wear sturdy shoes and stay on marked paths. Strollers and small children are not recommended due to the uneven terrain and altitude.

When it is rainy, the trail can be difficult to walk and bad weather increases the risk of rockfalls. It is wise to bring water and suitable shoes for the weather conditions. Although the trail is well-traveled and often trafficked, it is best to avoid walking alone – especially in areas with steep cliffs.

How do you get here?

Riva del Garda is located in the northernmost part of Lake Garda, 2 hours by car from Bergamo (Milan) airport or 2 hours by car from Venice. The nearest train station is in Rovereto, 30 minutes east of the town.

The Ponale Trail (Sentiero del Ponale) starts at the Riva del Garda hydroelectric power station (now a technical museum) on the edge of Lake Garda's northwestern edge. You can choose to hike up towards Lago di Ledro or continue along the lake to Pregasina.

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