The visits to the castle were made during a press trip together with German Tourist Office, but all opinions and thoughts are, as usual, my own.
Germany has almost 150 themed roads that provide inspiration and guide you to sights and places of interest for your road trip. The most famous way is enough Romantische Straße in Bavaria, but there are themed routes for all tastes and interests.
Romanesque Street (Romanesque Way) is a 1200 kilometer long tourist route in Saxony-Anhalt that was created in 1993. Since then it has become one of the most popular routes for culture and history interested car and caravan travelers. The road takes you to castles, cathedrals, monasteries and palaces from the 9th to the 13th century – the era when the Romanesque style was most popular in Europe. Here you'll find rustic castles and castles that would fit any episode of Game of Thrones, complete with stories of intrigue, evil sudden death and invading Swedish troops.
The Roman road is divided into a northern and a southern part, of which I have visited two castles (and a cathedral) along the southern route.
Neuenburg Castle in Freyburg
On a high hill, surrounded by the rolling vineyards of Freyburg, sits Neuenburg Castle. To today's visitors, it is an impressive sight, but imagine standing here in the Middle Ages, when the castle was not only a magnificent building but also a symbol of power and oppression. Its massive walls protected powerful rulers in an age marked by war and conflict.
Over the centuries, Neuenburg Castle has witnessed both romantic love stories and devastating fires. But let's start the story where it all began - at the birth of the castle.
The castle was founded in 1090 by Ludwig der Springer (in Swedish approximately "Ludwig Löparen"), a man surrounded by legends and mythical stories. The most famous story is about his infatuation with the beautiful Adelheid, who was married to Frederick III of Goseck. Tormented by his forbidden love, Ludwig invited Fredrik to a hunt in the castle, and fittingly, Fredrik died in an accident during the hunt.
Ludwig was arrested for the murder and imprisoned in a cold cell awaiting execution. The widow Adelheid faithfully visited her admirer in prison, and each time she brought a coat with her so that Ludwig would not freeze in his simple cell. He collected the cloaks into a parachute, and one day Ludwig simply jumped out of the window of his cell. This dramatic escape earned him the name "der Springer" (The Runner) and led him to finally marry his beloved Adelheid. History does not tell how Ludwig managed to avoid his punishment after the escape, but to atone for his crime, he had a church and a monastery built, among other things.
However, Ludwig's wife Adelheid could never forgive herself after her husband's murder and became deeply religious after the incident. According to legend, she still wanders restlessly through the castle at night, unable to find peace.
During the 13th century, when the castle was in the possession of the Counts of Thuringia, the castle was built on and today's thick walls and fairy-tale towers were created. The castle then fell into the hands of many families, but during large parts of the 18th and 19th centuries the castle became a hunting lodge and was mostly empty and decaying.
In 1935, a small museum was opened to the public on top of the castle, but the post-war period in the GDR was tough and the castle fell into even more disrepair. In 1989, lightning struck the castle's roof and the castle caught fire. The damage was extensive and it was no longer safe to visit the area. After the fall of the wall and through committed local residents, the castle was finally equipped in 1991 and since then the castle has been open to visitors.
Today you can visit the well-preserved and renovated residential tower, with its beautifully painted walls and ceiling and paintings made from the castle's former wallpaper. The furniture that stands in the castle today is not original, but it is from the right era and tells the story of life in the castle.
Some of the most visited parts of the castle are the two Romanesque chapels. The chapel was built in 1170 and through a hole in the floor you can see between the lower and upper chapel. During the castle's heyday, the chapel was used daily. Prayers and mass were held here, but it was also a place to collect one's thoughts.
The castle also has a permanent wine museum that tells about the region's wine 1000-year history of viticulture. One of the museum's most interesting objects is the wine press from the 16th century, one of the oldest in the world.
At the wine museum there is an interesting exhibition about the area's wine queens through the ages. To become a wine queen, you need to be a daughter of one of the area's wine families and know a bit about wine. A wine queen takes a year off from her regular job and helps with events and to promote the area's wines. An important task for a small wine region like Saale-Unstrut.
How do I get to Schloss Neuenburg?
The castle is open to visitors all year round, but during the winter season (November to March) some parts of the castle are closed and opening hours are limited.
It is possible to visit the castle virtually! Then look into Google's Museum Schloss Neuenburg (matterport.com).
Read about the castle on the official site: Schloss Neuenburg – Culture Foundation Saxony-Anhalt (schloss-neuenburg.de)
Querfurt Castle in Querfurt
Another castle along the Straße der Romanik theme road is Burg Querfurt, one of the oldest and largest castles in central Germany. As we approach the castle, we are met by massive walls and magnificent towers that stretch to the sky. It is impossible not to be fascinated by a building that was probably built as early as the 8th century.
Maybe you recognize the castle? It has featured in numerous films and TV series, further enhancing its mystique and allure. Our guide is carrying a tote bag with a Game of Thrones print, but even so, the castle hasn't been in that series. However, I am convinced that the castle would have fit like a glove for the Stark family.
During the 9th century, Querfurt's noble family lived and ruled from the castle and their legacy is still deeply rooted in the castle walls. But at the end of the 15th century, the family died out, and the archbishop of Magdeburg took over the reins.
One of the most dramatic eras in Querfurt's history occurred during the Thirty Years' War in the 17th century. This destructive and tragic war, marked by fighting between Catholics and Protestants, crippled the city of Querfurt with famine and disease. The castle became a witness to countless fierce battles and heavy losses as the Swedish troops ravaged the whole of Europe. In 1642, the Swedes besieged Querfurt and the castle, and the castle was in Swedish hands until 1650.
After the war, the Prince of Saxe-Querfurt moved into the castle and made Querfurt part of the Imperial Empire. But in 1815 came the next revolutionary war and the city became part of Prussia. Today, the castle has undergone renovation and thorough investigations have been carried out by archaeologists and historians, which is the basis for the exciting stories that meet you during your visit.
On our visit to the castle, we are given a guided tour by Lady Mathilda, dressed in a magnificent red velvet gown with gold embroidery that glistens in the sunlight. She is one of the many historical figures who have shaped the castle's story, and we get to accompany her, among other things, across drawbridges, through the ancient spice garden and down into one of the bastions, which are now mostly used for concerts.
The castle has two prominent towers. The Romanesque Paradise Tower has a characteristic red roof. The tower also has a small toilet that sticks out on one side of the wall – a detail that reminds us that necessity had no law even in the Middle Ages.
The second tower, the Black Tower, is Baroque in style and housed the former dungeon in its basement.
In the middle of the castle grounds is the small church that has been the burial place of the Counts of Querfurt since the 14th century. This historic venue is used today for weddings, concerts and regular church services. In the courtyard is also a restaurant in delicious premises, which is open during the weekends in high season.
How do I get to Burg Querfurt?
Burg Querfurt is open to visitors all year round, but with limited opening hours from November to March. Read more on the official site: Burg Querfurt – Middle Ages, Culture & Great Cinema (burg-querfurt.de)
Do you want to read more about Straße der Romanik and German theme roads?
Straße der Romanik stretches across 100 Swedish miles in Saxony-Anhalt and passes several famous cities such as Magdeburg, Quedinburg and Naumburg. Read more about the world heritage of Naumburg and the amazing cathedral in my article Naumburg - A journey through time through medieval masterpieces - Germany.
You can find inspiration for more German themed routes in the article 10 German themed routes - Discover Germany by car from castles to porcelain.
Read more about Straße der Romanik on the official website Straße der Romanik – Official Site (strassederromanik.de).
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