Riquewihr – The hunt for the perfect coconut macaroons

Riquewihr is one of the most visited villages in Alsace and is also said to have inspired Belle's hometown in Disney's "Beauty and the Beast". But we are not visiting Riquewihr because the village is so beautiful, we are in search of a cake. We are going to find Macarons of Riquewihr – the area's famous coconut peaks.

Alsace is a treasure trove of fairytale villages – adorably charming, but often difficult to pronounce for the uninitiated. Riquewihr is no exception. Its name is neither French nor German, but comes from the local language Alsatian, a fascinating mix of German dialects with French influences. “Wihr” means roughly “village by the water”, while “Rique” is believed to come from “Ric”, which means king. A place fit for a king, and with its timeless beauty, Riquewihr definitely lives up to its name.

Riquewihr spreads out at the foot of the Vosges Mountains, surrounded by rolling hills and graceful vines climbing the slopes. The village’s history dates back to Roman times, but it was during the Middle Ages that it really flourished. The town was fortified with a protective wall, and its towers and churches took shape – many of which still stand today.

The surrounding vineyards are located at an altitude of around 300 meters and benefit from the natural protection of the Vosges Mountains. The mountain range moderates the extremes of the climate, while the cool night winds give the grapes a slower ripening process and a fresher character.

Alsace is known for being the driest region in France, and Riquewihr is right in the middle of this rain-poor belt. Ironically, the sky chose to defy the statistics on the day we were there. Good for the vines – not so good for those of us who left our umbrellas at home.

I had heard about Riquewihr's famous pastries – Macarons of Riquewihr– and saw no reason to resist the temptation. Macarons, you think, they can even be bought at Lidl in Sweden? Quite right, but these have nothing to do with French almond meringues. Instead, they are deliciously soft and creamy coconut macaroons in a range of different flavours, from classic natural coconut to rich chocolate and exotic passion fruit. And the very best? You can find them at La Maison Alsacienne de Biscuiterie – an institution for anyone who takes their coconut macaroons seriously.

With just 1200 inhabitants, Riquewihr is a small village with a big reputation and one of the most visited villages in all of Alsace. The entire historic center is car-free, and the main street, Rue du Général de Gaulle, is lined with wine shops, restaurants and charming cafes. The shop windows are like small works of art, decorated both inside and out with everything from dried corn on the cob and gingerbread to stork statues and climbing roses.

The village is surrounded by an old ring wall, where many of the house facades have served as part of the town's defenses over the centuries. Two gates lead into Riquewihr – La Porte Haute and Hôtel de Ville – and inside the walls the streets spread out like the branches of a tree, with a lively main street and a maze of charming cul-de-sacs.

At the city's western gate stands Riquewihr's most iconic building – the magnificent Dolder Tower from 1291. At 25 metres, it has been the city's main landmark for centuries, and even today the main street passes right through the foot of the tower. Just beyond the gate, the Sentier Viticole des Grands Crus, a scenic hiking trail that connects six of Alsace's wine villages and offers a picturesque tour of the vineyards around Riquewihr.

But right now we are following a different path – the smell of freshly baked goods. Inside the small bakery, one of Alsace's most traditional cakes reigns supreme: Kougelhopf. This tall, ring-shaped sponge cake, filled with raisins and almonds and dusted with icing sugar, is a staple in the region. Admittedly a little dry for my taste, but dipped in your morning coffee it transforms into a French breakfast classic. And the smell? Absolutely irresistible.

A black nose peeks out from under the rows of Kougelhopf. In a place where you would hardly believe a dog could fit, a curious Golden Retriever stares at us with big, brown eyes. The baker’s faithful companion seems to know exactly what it’s doing – there’s more space behind the deceptive brick wall than you might guess from the street. A French lady, wearing a floral dress and straw hat, pulls out cash to buy today’s fika bread – or perhaps rather tomorrow’s breakfast. The dog sniffs the lady’s feet a bit and then seems satisfied.

But our journey continues, lured by another, equally irresistible scent of freshly baked cookies. A sweet blend of coconut, vanilla and chocolate fills the air, and we know immediately that we have arrived at La Maison Alsacienne de Biscuiterie.

Maison Alsacienne de Biscuiterie is not a traditional and historic bakery, but rather a modern creation from 1996. Today there are thirteen branches in Alsace, but the original bakery here in Riquewihr is the place where the famous coconut macaroons once came to life.

Among large piles of freshly baked and lukewarm cookies, a seductive aroma of coconut spreads in all possible variations – plain, chocolate, rum raisin, pistachio, banana and passion fruit. We are offered generous taste samples and after tasting all the varieties it is clear that we cannot agree on a favorite. So why not take a little of everything? Macarons de Riquewihr are sold by the hecto, but with a price of almost €40 per kilo you don’t want to buy too many. The cookies are airy and irresistible, and we buy a bag that should be enough for the car trip to Burgundy the next day.

With the lukewarm cookies in hand, we slowly start walking back towards the car. One more taste… and one more. Because why wait until they cool down when they taste like this? Thinking that the cookies will last all the way to Burgundy is already a utopia, but what does that do? Sometimes it's the hunt for the cookies that makes the journey the sweetest.

How do I get to Riquewihr?

Riquewihr is located in Alsace in northeastern France, on the border with southern Germany. The nearest major international airports are Zurich (160 km) and Stuttgart (210 km). There are day trips to Riquewihr from Colmar and from Strasbourg.

Would you like to read more from Alsace?

• Colmar – Alsace's charming town with canals and half-timbered houses
• Ribeauvillé - A tale of three castles and vineyards - France
• 20 highlights from this year's road trip in France
• Eguisheim- Half-timbered houses, storks and vineyards in the heart of Alsace
• Kaysersberg – Wine, ceramics and Le whiskey Alsacien