We had never heard of Puy de Dome before we happened to pass by here during our drive through Auvergne on our way to Dordogne. It was one of those happy coincidences that sometimes happens when you just follow the GPS without any expectations and need a stop along the way. And it wasn't hard to decide to stop here, when we suddenly drove into a landscape that almost felt unreal. Green hills with small volcanic craters greeted us through the car window in an otherwise very flat landscape.
Volcanoes and World Heritage Sites
Chaîne des Puys is a volcanic field with 80 volcanoes which is located in a row 32 kilometers long and 4 kilometers wide in the middle of France. Among the volcanoes rises Puy de Dome, the highest and most famous mountain in Auvergne, and next to it are the volcanoes Puy Pariou and Puy de la Vache. Not entirely unexpectedly, Puy means “volcanic hill/peak” in Old French. Together they create a landscape that feels unexpectedly dramatic, with volcanic cones, craters and lava fields.
Puy de Dôme is a dormant volcano and although it last erupted more than 11000 years ago, the place feels far from dead when you stand there. You can see the traces of geology everywhere with craters, rock fields and rolling hills. The entire area around Puy de Dôme is included in UNESCO's World Heritage List and is one of the most well-preserved volcanic landscapes in the world, where scientists can study how volcanoes form and change.
We decided to take the little train up to the summit of Puy de Dôme. The train climbed through a landscape that changed with every kilometer – from lush forests to open views over volcanic fields, with vistas of fertile farmland and quaint villages. When we stepped off at the top, we were greeted by a panorama that was unexpectedly breathtaking. What had appeared as gentle hills from the car turned out to be volcanic craters, with the highest peak here at Puy de Dôme rising 1465 meters above sea level.
At the crater, we were met by crisp mountain air and a network of hiking trails branching off in various directions, each with its own level of difficulty. We decided to follow one of the more central paths, which winds along the rim of the volcano and leads up to the summit. The trail was wide, well-maintained, and gently undulating, with numerous steps along the way. A perfect spot to stretch your legs before continuing the drive.
Roman temple with a view
We hadn’t expected to be hiking on volcanoes that day, and our surprise grew when we suddenly came across the Temple of Mercury, a Roman temple built more than two thousand years ago. The site was sacred to the Romans, who believed that the summit of Puy de Dôme brought them closer to the gods, so near to the sky. Back then, pilgrims hiked up to offer sacrifices to Mercury, while today most visitors seem more curious about whether there’s a café or a spot to sip their coffee. Whether you come to pay homage to the gods or simply to take in the view with a thermos in hand, Puy de Dôme remains a truly awe-inspiring place.
We spent a couple of hours hiking on the volcanoes and also managed to visit the temple museum before continuing our journey west. The view was of course one of the biggest benefits of the stop, but the many craters and lava rocks constantly reminded us of the historical volcanic eruptions. It is not easy to understand that the eruptions here could once have been so powerful that they could cover large parts of what is now Auvergne with lava and ash. In the same way that Vesuvius is still the star of the drama outside Naples or Etna, which sends jump scares to Sicily every year.
What made the visit extra special was the feeling of having discovered a hidden gem. We hadn't planned to go here and we had never read about Puy de Dôme in the guidebooks, but the combination of hiking, geology and Roman history made the stop absolutely perfect. A place worth a detour!
How do I get to Puy de Dôme?
Puy de Dôme is located 170 km west of Lyon, in an area that is far from most things. The volcanoes are located in Parc naturel régional des Volcans d’Auvergne, a protected nature reserve. The parking lot is large, but on days with nice weather it is well filled.
The train to the top of Puy de Dôme costs between €17,20 and €18,60 (depending on the season). Children's tickets cost €10,10 to €11,70. Discounted family tickets are available. Dogs on a leash are welcome both on the train and on the hiking trails.
Bring a sweater even in summer, it's cooler up at the top than you might think. You can hike to the top from the parking lot, but it's a 7 km uphill hike that takes about 2,5 hours. We chose to spend our time hiking up the volcanoes instead of just going up and down. Going down is much faster.
If you're traveling through Auvergne, Puy de Dôme is a place not to be missed! Take the train up, hike among the dormant volcanoes, and let the Temple of Mercury be a reminder of how people have always been drawn to great views and high altitudes.
Read more about Puy de Dôme on the official site (in French only): Le volcan puy de Dôme – Puy-de-Dôme Tourisme
Do you want to read more about France? Here you will find more articles about nature, cities, caves and hiking.
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