Six Swedish miles south of Örnsköldsvik lies Nordingrå parish, an area right in the heart of the beauty of the High Coast. Here, the bays meander out to sea like fjords, the mountains rise steeply and the traditional red wooden houses are nestled in greenery behind every bend in the road.
Since 2000, Nordingrå has been part of the UNESCO-designated area the world heritage High Coast, an area protected specifically for its unique land elevation since the last ice age. Every year the ground rises 8 mm – faster than anywhere else on earth. Add to that untouched nature, extensive forests and an archipelago with picturesque fishing villages and you will find a real paradise for those who love fishing, outdoor life and hiking.
We drive around with the car on the small, crooked and hilly roads and stop when we are offered some extra spectacular views. It happens often. But it doesn't matter, because it's relatively quiet along the roads. Most of the visitors seem to have gathered at the Skuleskogen National Park or the campsite at Friluftsbyn - two places that absolutely deserve their reputation, but which are only a fraction of all that the High Coast has to offer.
Rotsidan nature reserve
At the far end of the sea, southeast of the village of Nordingrå, is the Rotsidan nature reserve - a place where the barren and dramatic nature of the High Coast really shows itself from its best side. The well-polished rocks stretch like a terrace four kilometers along the sea's edge, shaped over thousands of years by the sea and its storms. Here stand chastened pines and firs that have been through numerous autumn storms and here grows more moss and lichen than grass.
The root side is a popular spot for anyone looking for sun and a swim, and the sun-warmed rocks are surprisingly pleasant to sit on. Sit down and pour yourself a cup of coffee and enjoy the peace. Fireplaces are available for grilling and the wood shed is stocked with ready firewood if you would like to grill some breadsticks or a sausage.
The popular hiking trail passes through the nature reserve World Heritage Trail, a 10-mile hiking trail that passes most of Nordingrå's attractions and beautiful places. The hiking trail is divided into 14 stages, which makes it easy to plan the hike. For each stage, there is also an information website tips on accommodation and places to eat. Rotsidan also offers an accessible walkway from the car park all the way out to the cliffs, suitable for both prams and wheelchairs.
From a distance, the rocks may look bare and lifeless, but in all the cracks and crevices, bright little flowers are blooming. If you're lucky, you might find the beach nave flower, a very rare flower that only grows here along the coast.
Read more about Rotsidan nature reserve at The County Administrative Board's page about Rotsidan, or on High Coast Tourist Service.
You can find the County Administrative Board's official brochure about Rotsidan's nature reserve here.
Bönhamn
The high coast has many fine fishing villages which are still both alive and well preserved. One of these is Bönhamn, where the red fishermen's cottages and sailors' sheds are closely clustered in a sheltered bay. Bönhamn was founded in the 17th century and quickly became an important place for summer sturgeon fishing. Today, there are no professional fishermen left and most of the fishing sheds have been converted into summer cottages, but the harbor is still the center of the village and the village is an important bearer of the area's fishing history.
From Bönhamn the ferry M/S Ronja goes out to Högbonden's lighthouse, a popular hostel and cafe high up on a cliff on a barren island. Despite spending my childhood in the area, I still haven't managed to get out to Högbondens lighthouse, which makes me a little sad. Every time I think "next summer", but when I realize that I should book, it's always fully booked.
During the summer, many boat guests come to visit the café Bönhamnsbrygga serves both food and has a bar. We settle down at a table on the café's pier and buy a wrapped ham baguette and a coffee. It's such a lovely summery day, even though it's only the beginning of June. The seagulls scream, the boats bob in the waves and a bit out a kayak takes aim at the outer archipelago. Idyllic as it suggests.
Learn more about Bönhamn at the High Coast Tourist Association.
Nordingrå church
Nordingrå church has perhaps the most spectacular view of all churches in Sweden. The 12 remaining church stables stand guard in a row down towards the sea and the white church shines in the strong midsummer sun. It is postcard idyllic and unexpectedly empty of tourists.
On this historic site there has been a church left over 1000 years and the medieval church ruin rests right next to the current church. Three burial mounds from the Viking Age have also been found here, so it is clear that this place has meant a lot to many people over hundreds of years.
Originally, there were 70 church stables here that were used by the visitors who traveled to the service by horse and carriage. Here the horses could rest under a roof protected from the elements, which was really needed during the winter.
Read more about Nordingrå church's history at Kramfors.se.
The farm shop
A simple name for a well-stocked farm shop. The farm shop is a family-owned farm shop and restaurant run by Anna and David Nilsson. Here, dishes are served based on ingredients from the farmers and fishermen in the area, and many of the delicacies in the store are picked and prepared by the family. Don't miss stopping here - if you're lucky, they serve pan steak with chanterelle sauce on today's menu.
Just outside Nordingrå
Are you continuing your journey north towards Örnsköldsvik?
Two shops you shouldn't miss if you continue your journey north are Mjällom flatbread in Ullånger and Docksta factory store in Docksta. Buy a big (I mean really big!) box of old-fashioned flatbread and try out the most perfect slippers, and then you'll be ready for long cozy evenings when autumn knackar on the door.
Skuleskogen National Park is always worth a visit. Although it is no longer allowed to hike through Slåttdalsskrevan, it is an incredibly beautiful hike with nice views. Read more here: Hike Slåttdalsskrevan – Skuleskogen's most dramatic side – Ångermanland
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