The trip to Usedom was a press trip together with Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania tourist office, but all thoughts and opinions are, as always, my own.
I arrive by ferry in Świnoujście so early that not even the rooster is awake. Or perhaps I should call it Swinemünde, its German name. Just twenty-five minutes later, the taxi drops me at my hotel in Heringsdorf, on the German side of Usedom. Breakfast has yet to begin, so I wander down to the beach to greet the sunrise. The white sand is cool and firm beneath my feet, and despite the sharp December wind, there is a serene stillness here at the edge of the Baltic Sea.
The sky slowly begins to change color, from muted blue to soft pink and warm gold. The horizon feels endless, even though Skåne is only a few hours away by boat. It's easy to understand why these beaches became a summer paradise for emperors, Russian grand dukes and the aristocracy of Europe 120 years ago.
But let's start the story of the Imperial Baths from the beginning.
The Emperor's Favorite Beach Resort
Usedom is Germany's second largest island, shared with Poland to the east. Along the Baltic Sea coast stretches over 42 kilometers of fine, white sand, fringed by rolling dunes and elegant piers. On the German side lies The Imperial Baths – the three imperial seaside resorts Heringsdorf, Ahlbeck and Bansin.
When I visit in early December, the place exudes an almost meditative calm. On the beach, a couple strolls with their dogs, another moves briskly with walking poles, and far off I spot a woman taking a long winter swim, wearing nothing but a knitted hat. In summer, the scene is entirely different: the beach teems with bathers and colorful striped wicker chairs, a seaside cinema screens films at sunset, and children search for amber along the water’s edge.
120 years ago, this place looked different. The beach was filled with strolling ladies in white, flowing dresses with parasols, gentlemen in tailcoats and straw hats, and orchestras playing. Back then, people came by steamboat rather than ferry, and every walk along the beach was part of an elegant and social summer ritual.
The name Imperial baths (Kaiserbäder in German) comes from Emperor Wilhelm II’s frequent visits to the island in the late 19th century. He and his family came here for hunting, rest, health-giving baths and glittering parties – far from the politics of Berlin and the demands of everyday life. Soon the rest of Europe’s aristocracy, artists and industrialists followed suit. A railway from Berlin was built and the three seaside resorts experienced a building boom. White facades with columns, towers and carved wooden details rose along the streets, often inspired by sumptuous Italian Renaissance palaces or charming Swiss alpine chalets.
The GDR era and decline
After World War II, everything changed as Usedom became part of the former East Germany. Many of the island’s beautiful villas and hotels, once privately owned, were expropriated and placed under state control, repurposed as holiday resorts for the working class or for government institutions. Resources for proper maintenance were scarce, and the elegance of the imperial era gradually faded, hidden behind concrete, peeling paint, and weathered façades.
When Germany was reunified in 1990, hotels and restaurants began a slow revival, gradually being restored to their former glory as the area modernized. Ornate historical details on the houses were brought back to life, and government support programs made it possible to rescue even the most dilapidated buildings. Yet the transformation took time. It wasn’t until around 2005 that one could truly say that Kaiserbäder had regained its classic elegance—this time fused seamlessly with modern comfort.
In hindsight, it’s perhaps no surprise that so few Swedes have discovered Usedom’s beaches—after all, it remains a relatively “new” destination for our generation. It also explains why many of the island’s older residents do not speak English; during the GDR era, Russian was the language taught in schools. Understanding a place’s history makes its present easier to grasp, and on Usedom, it becomes strikingly clear how the past continues to shape everything—from the architecture to the way of life.
Three seaside resorts with different characters
The three seaside resorts in Kejsarbaden have now grown together, but each of the seaside resorts has managed to retain its own character over the years. It is easy to cycle between the towns on rental bikes or bikes borrowed from the hotel, so you don't need a car to discover the surrounding area. There is also a free bus between the towns that is part of the tourist card which you receive when you have paid the mandatory tourist tax at check-in. You need to carry the card with you during your stay on Usedom, as there are checks.
Heringsdorf, where I spent most of my time, is the largest of the three beach resorts. Elegant villas line the streets in perfect rows, while along the promenade hotels, seaside restaurants, cozy cafés, spa facilities, and even a Ferris wheel create a lively yet refined atmosphere. The casino beckons with its promise of excitement, and the local brewery, complete with a beer garden, fills the air with the rich scent of malt and hops. The iconic pier stretches gracefully into the sea, its elegant architecture almost as if it belonged in the Maldives.
Ahlbeck is the oldest of the seaside resorts and boasts the island's oldest pier (seebrücke in German) that stretches out into the sea since 1898. Along the promenade, the white wooden villas stand in a row, elegant and well-kept, and among them are several classic seaside hotels that breathe history. Ahlbeck has a calmer pace than Heringsdorf and here it feels as if a large part of the charm of the imperial days has been preserved.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to visit the smallest of the three seaside resorts—Bansin. Here, small guesthouses rather than large hotels dominate, and the town is considered more family-friendly, prized for its tranquility and close connection to nature. But when it comes to the beach, all three resorts are alike: the sand is just as fine and white, beach chairs are available to rent everywhere, and public restrooms are conveniently located right by the shore.
Today's seaside resorts
The Imperial baths have survived war, communism, and decades of neglect under East Germany, and today they stand once again with freshly painted piers and immaculately restored façades. Morning walks along the beach still offer the same soothing tranquility they once gave the emperor more than a century ago, and this sense of a bygone era lends the resorts something few beach destinations possess: a rich history and a genuine soul. Today’s hotels blend elegance and heritage with modern comfort—from state-of-the-art spa retreats and five-star international luxury hotels to small, intimate boutique stays. There is something here for nearly every taste and budget.
International tourism on Usedom remains remarkably limited, something that becomes evident in the scarcity of information in English. Of course, the Imperial baths are established seaside resorts, but without the crowds or kitsch often associated with the Mediterranean—here there is only sand, sea, and understated elegance. Usedom is truly a hidden gem, one that deserves to be far better known among Swedes, not least for its proximity to Skåne and its remarkably beautiful beaches. A perfect weekend escape—far beyond the summer season.
I begin my last day on Usedom the same way I began my first—with a morning walk along the beach in Heringsdorf at dawn. Although Usedom is Germany’s sunniest place, boasting around 1900 hours of sunshine each year, this December morning is wrapped in clouds. Sea and sky blend into shifting shades of blue, and the water lies almost perfectly still. Yet those I pass on the beach seem unbothered by the absence of sun. They move at an unhurried pace, carrying the quiet confidence of a day already mapped out: a spa visit, a good book, and dinner at a favorite restaurant. On Usedom, every day of the year feels like a Sunday—unrushed, serene, and made for enjoyment.
Travel to Usedom
Usedom is surprisingly easy to reach by car from southern Sweden. Ferries depart several times a day from Ystad, Trelleborg, and Malmö. I traveled (without a car) withUnity lineto Usedom and withPolferriesback, both worked seamlessly. The ferry from Ystad departs around 11 p.m., making it easy to settle into your cabin for the night and wake up the next morning in Swinemünde. Simple, comfortable, and remarkably convenient.
The nearest international airport is Berlin, from where you can then take the train to Usedom (2-3 hours).
Would you like to read more tips about Usedom? Check out my Usedom page.
Do you want to read more about Germany? Here you will find more articles about nature, cities, vineyards and hiking.
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