Already as we approach the city, we see Kalundborg's most famous building in the distance on the city's horizon. The brick church Vor Frue Kirke (Church of Our Lady) with its 5 towers rises above the rooftops like a medieval castle with pinnacles and turrets. A unique medieval brick church in one of Denmark's best preserved medieval towns.
The small harbor town of Kalundborg is located on Zealand's west coast, surrounded by sea, beaches and prosperous vineyards. The city was mentioned for the first time in literature as early as the 12th century, but the city is probably even older. During the Middle Ages, however, Kalundborg grew and became an important trading place and port in the Baltic Sea area. Today, Kalundborg is known for Denmark's best-preserved medieval architecture and the unique church in the Højbyen quarter.
The church of Our Lady was started by Esbern Snare as early as 1170, but was not completed until after his death, around 1220. Esbern Snare was not only a nobleman – he was also a knight and close advisor to King Valdemar the Great. Through his relationship with the king, Snare and his family became a truly powerful force in Denmark.
Snare had also been a commander among the Danish Crusaders, and it is believed that he brought inspiration from his travels to the Holy Land when the church was built. Looking at the church from above, you immediately see why it is so special – it is shaped like a Greek cross with four equal arms. On each arm stands a tower, and in the middle rises an even larger tower. It is truly something you do not see anywhere else in the world.
From the ground, Vor Frue Kirke almost looks like a fairytale castle. You could easily imagine it as belonging to a scary Brothers Grimm tale, with knights and secret passages. The church is not just a place for worship, it is a building that tells of power, faith and inspiration from distant lands and that still amazes people with its unique appearance.
Another unique detail about Kalundborg's church is that it is built of brick. Bricks were a relatively modern phenomenon in the 12th century, after monks brought the knowledge of brickmaking to Denmark from Germany. Today, Kalundborg's church is Denmark's oldest preserved brick building.
The church is often open to visitors and it is an interesting experience to step inside its gates. I probably expected the inside to be as exciting as the outside, but the inside of the church is relatively bare and the surface is experienced rather less than expected.
The cobbled streets around Kalundborg are lined with houses mainly built between the 15th and 17th centuries. Plastered facades in yellow and pink are mixed with classic brick and half-timbering, and in summer the hollyhocks bloom by the gates. Idyllic and charming and unexpectedly untouched. On an April day like this when we visit the neighborhood it is also incredibly quiet and the only people we meet are dog owners and garbage collectors.
Some of the most famous houses in Højbyen are the brick tower St. Gertruds Gård (Prestegade 23), Lindegården with Kalundborg's museum and the Chapel's house (with the beautiful blue-red door).
We are getting close to the end of our visit to Kalundborg, but we still have one more place to visit. If you continue Adelgatan past the church and museum, you will come to the ruins of Vestborgen – a castle that was also built by Esbern Snare. During the 15th century, the dilapidated castle and the city's ring wall were taken down and the material was reused for other buildings. The place where the castle was located came to be forgotten over the years. Not until the beginning of the 20th century was the ruin discovered again and excavations are still ongoing.
How do I get to Kalundborg?
Kalundborg is located on the coast 1,5 hours west of Copenhagen and is a cozy stop on your trip around Zealand.
Do you want to read more about Denmark? Here you will find more articles about nature, cities, castles and hiking.
Another nearby attraction is Denmark's largest vineyard - Dyrehøj Vineyard.
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