The safari with Insel Safari was done during a press trip with Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania tourist office, but all thoughts and opinions are, as always, my own.
December is a quiet time on the German island of Usedom. The summer guests have left their villas, the beach’s wicker chairs have been put away and the large outdoor cinema screen has been taken down. Couples stroll on the fine-grained sand in the gentle sea breeze and the seagulls scream as they always do. But even though the beach may be at rest during the off-season, the island’s wildlife never rests. It’s simply the perfect time to experience Usedom’s fauna and landscape on an adventure with Insel Safari, and maybe even catch a glimpse of some of the island’s most impressive inhabitants – the white-tailed eagles.
Insel Safari is a guided car safari with a Land Rover Defender through the changing landscape of Usedom. Usedom is so much more than its sandy beaches. The island offers a landscape that changes with every kilometer we pass – beech forests, lakes, vast wetlands, canals and viewpoints. The contrast between coast, forest and inland gives a feeling of being on a greater journey of discovery, even if you never leave the island.
One of the real highlights of the safari is getting to “surf” through the landscape sitting on the roof of the Land Rover. Equipped with a blanket and seat cushion, you get the chance to really soak up nature and all its scents. It’s not particularly comfortable, but you quickly forget that. It’s simply too much fun. But we don’t just drive during the safari, but the car ride is interspersed with short walks that make you feel close to nature all the time. On regular roads, you sit inside the car with a seatbelt.
The tours follow roads normally off-limits to private drivers, making nearly every Insel Safari trip a unique experience. Routes are carefully tailored to the weather, wind, and the preferences of those on board. In winter, the island’s birdlife is especially captivating – from white-tailed eagles and swans to migrating birds gliding between lakes and wetlands. Throughout the journey, the guide points out hidden gems, shares fascinating stories, and ensures you notice details you might otherwise overlook.
At Wolgastsee, we make our first stop for coffee, tea, or a warming glass of mulled wine. A heron drifts gracefully over the lake, and the soft, muted light of December casts a calm stillness over the scene. Many migratory birds from Sweden pause at Usedom’s lakes on their journey south, taking a well-earned rest after their long flight across the Baltic Sea. I scan the skies for even grander wingspans than the heron’s, but today, the white-tailed eagles remain elusive.
Everywhere on the island we see traces of the island's history, which actually has more to do with Sweden than you might think. In addition to Sweden owning Western Pomerania for almost 170 years, Usedom was created when the ice sheet retreated from Scandinavia. This created large sandbanks that over the years have been shaped into islands and lakes and the fantastic beaches that line the island's northern coast.
We continue past shimmering lakes like Schmollensee and the Achterwasser lagoon, where the winter light drapes the landscape in a soft, ethereal mist—no filters required, nature provides it all. Where nature falls short, humans step in. Deeper into the beech forests, we encounter a tall fence, which we carefully open to pass through. It’s a measure to keep the wild boars at bay: on one side, swine fever rages; on the other, the forest remains untouched.
We drive through the flat landscape where hundreds of canals cut through the meadows. The dikes on the island have opened up wetlands for agriculture since the 19th century, affecting both the landscape and water supply. One of the stops on our tour is the historic Kachlin water pumping station, where an Archimedes screw lifts the water 1,5 meters. It may be historic, but it still works!
Lunch is enjoyed at the Insel Safari rest area, where we are served steaming pumpkin soup with sausages and fresh sandwiches. Here we also meet the owner, Gunnar, who shares fascinating insights about the island and its natural environment. Our conversation spans topics from sustainability and young people’s limited knowledge of nature to Usedom’s water consumption, which is three times higher than the island can sustainably support—largely due to its numerous spa facilities.
The tour is a 5 hour adventure, but time flies by very quickly! Many stops, many laughs and a lot of information fill the day with gems. The guide speaks German to Google translate and everything works unexpectedly well despite my non-existent German.
On the way back to the hotel we pass two windmills – Bockwindmühle Pudagla from the 17th century which is still functional and Dutch windmill Benz, which was previously converted into a residence but is now more of a museum.
The adventure ends in one of Usedom's many lookout towers. From this tower it is said that you can see seven lakes at once. I count to six – the seventh turns out to be hidden behind mature trees. A last attempt to see a white-tailed eagle fails even from the lookout point, but after all the impressions of the day it doesn't matter that much. I think I'll see them next time I'm on the island.
Practical information
Insel Safari on Usedom runs its guided tours all year round, and you will be picked up and dropped off at your hotel. During high season, five Land Rovers run daily, slightly fewer during the winter. The website is currently only in German, but Google Translate works well. The tours are also normally in German, but contact them by email if you would like an English-speaking guide.
The easiest way to get to Usedom is by ferry from Ystad or Trelleborg to Świnoujście. I took the night ferry with Polferries to Germany and the day ferry with Unity Line on the way home.
Read more here Island Safari and in the lovely travel report at FreedomTravel.
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