We arrive in Hildesheim on a warm July evening, right at noon, after a long day's journey from Skåne. Autobahn, as usual, has not been as fast as Google claimed. The summer traffic on the southbound roads during holiday periods is always an ordeal, but with easily pre-booked restaurants and hotels, we still felt surprisingly alert when we finally checked in. Hildesheim lay before us, ready to be discovered. But even at first glance, I can't help but wonder why this city isn't better known as a bigger tourist magnet.
Hildesheim, one of Lower Saxony's real gems, offers two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, one legendary 1000-year-old rose bush and charming alleys filled with picturesque half-timbered houses. Although most of the town was lost in a bombing raid during the Second World War, Hildesheim has been restored to its former glory over the past 40 years. Today, the city's can 100 000 inhabitants once again call their hometown one of Germany's most beautiful cities.
History of Hildesheim
Hildesheim, one of northern Germany's oldest towns, has a history spanning over 1200 years. Founded in the 8th century by the Roman emperor Louis the Pious, the city grew up around the newly established bishopric of Hildesheim and eventually became an important hub in the region.
When Hildesheim became part of the Hanseatic League in 1357, the town's character changed radically. From being a small town, it was transformed into a bustling trading city and the city took on a central role in the economy of northern Germany. During the 19th century, the town was thrown into war between Prussia and the Kingdom of Hanover, but from 1866 Hildesheim became part of Prussia and continued to develop.
The historic and beautiful medieval city survived the brutal bombings of the Second World War for a long time, but on March 22, 1945, the city found itself in the crosshairs of the war. A massive bombing raid destroyed three quarters of the city, including the historic quarters at the market square and basically all the churches. In just one night, Hildesheim lost its medieval center, and over 1500 people lost their lives. The city, which for centuries preserved its medieval roots, was turned into a ruin just months before the end of the war.
After the end of the war, the city's residents wanted the city to be quickly rebuilt and practical solutions became more important than beautiful solutions. Some houses were restored in the 50s, while others were replaced by anonymous cement buildings instead of the old half-timbered houses that once made the market square one of the most beautiful squares in the world.
In the 1980s, however, everything changed. The hotel at the market square went bankrupt and the city saw its chance to rebuild the famous buildings and its lost splendor. Through the collection of old photos and donations, the market square's beautiful half-timbered house could be restored in its former place. It is the rebuilt and restored Hildesheim that meets us today with its beautiful buildings and inviting outdoor seating. A city with clean streets, beautiful statues, soothing fountains and stately churches. Hildesheim has once again become the medieval gem it once was – albeit partially reconstructed.
Rosenleden
It is not only Visby and Lund that can call themselves the city of roses, but also Hildesheim. The city is not only famous for the many roses that climb along the half-timbered facades, but also for it 100The 0-year-old rosebush growing in Hildesheim's Cathedral Mariendom. To experience all of Hildesheim's sights, the easiest way is to follow the 5 kilometer long one Rosenleden around Hildesheim, a walking loop marked with 150 tiles with roses and with a well-filled brochure that you can buy at the tourist office.
The historic market square
The market square (Marktplatz) is the heart of Hildesheim. Every single facade has been resurrected from the destruction during the Second World War and although they are newly built houses, they have been built traditionally and with the same attention to detail. As a visitor, this is where you should begin to experience Hildesheim and this is also where you begin your walk along the Rosenleden.
We walk around the square for a long time looking at all the details, paintings and wood carvings. Unique details in a very unique place. Despite the fact that it is a warm evening, it is unexpectedly quiet on the outdoor terraces, perhaps because the industrial holiday in Germany has not yet started.
Knochenhauer-Amtshaus
One of the most famous buildings in the market square is the Ornate Knochenhauer-Amtshaus ("the house of the butcher's guild"). Originally built in 1529 and a whopping 26 meters high, it is the square's (and Germany's) tallest half-timbered house. The whole facade gets wider and wider with each floor up in the house. The technique is called cantilevering and was mainly used to get more floor space, but it was also a symbol of prosperity and wealth. Or to reduce the owner's tax, as in some German cities it was determined by the house's land area.
Temple House
Another beautiful building in the market square is Temple House (temple house). The house was originally built in 1320 in an oriental style, but over the years has been embellished with two towers and Renaissance windows. Some historians believe that the house may once have been a Jewish synagogue (hence the name) with a bath in the basement, but historians are far from agreed.
Wedekindhaus
To the right of the Tempelhaus is Wedekindhaus, named after the former owner Wedekind. The house was originally from the 17th century, and was owned by the merchant Hans Storre. After the house was completely destroyed during the war, a new house was built in the 1980s and today the Wedekindhaus is a bank and also combined with the two houses on the right.
In my eyes, the Wedekindhaus has the most beautiful facade on the square and the rustic oak half-timbered facade is richly decorated with people and stories. A house that demands you stop and admire.
St. Mary's Cathedral
Hildesheim Cathedral St. Mary's Cathedral is one of Hildesheim's two world heritage sites and you can easily walk here from the Marktplatz. The cathedral was already built at the beginning of 1000 century in Romanesque style, with thick walls, round arches, massive columns and small windows. During the bombings of World War II, the church was completely destroyed, but the cathedral was rebuilt to its former glory during the 50s and 60s.
But what is it then that makes the cathedral a world heritage site? In addition to its impressive size, the cathedral hides a number of unique art treasures. The bronze Bernward doors from 100The 0th century with its detailed figures and the large Hezilo chandelier from the Middle Ages with a diameter of 6 meters are just some of the sights.
Inside Hildesheim's cathedral is also another of the city's most popular attractions, the 100The 0-year-old rose. Legend has it that the great rosebush survived the fire that destroyed the cathedral during the Second World War bombings and that 25 new shoots are said to have risen from the ashes eight weeks after the disaster. Nothing short of a miracle.
When we arrived at the cathedral in the evening it was already closed for the day to visitors, so we had to content ourselves with walking around the large building and admiring the architecture from the outside. The cathedral closes every day between 16:30 and 17:30, which may be worth noting. Hope the thousand-year-old rose can wait for us until the next time we pass by Hildesheim. But has it waited in 1000 years, so it can probably wait for a few more years.
The observation tower of St. Andrew's Church
We then walk past St. St. Andrew's Church and its observation tower. St. Andrew's Church in itself is a rather grand church, which was also bombed and rebuilt after the Second World War. But most visitors don't come here for the church, but for the views. Here, those who like panoramic views can climb the 364 steps to the top of the church tower for an unbeatable view of the city.
The clock tower closes already at 16pm and you need to buy tickets online to guarantee your visit.
Neustadt – the new old town
The next morning we head to one of the areas of Hildesheim that was not destroyed during the war, the old quarter Neustadt with the streets around Kesslerstrasse. The vast majority of the houses in this area were built between the 15th and 17th centuries and still stand just as beautiful and just as proud. This is charming, colorful, quiet and green, a lively area with hundreds of half-timbered houses and alleys.
The roses are climbing along the facades, some pensioners have been shopping for food, some parents are on their way to preschool with their children and cars shine with their absence. Once upon a time, this was a separate town on the outskirts of Hildesheim, but the town became part of Hildesheim during the 19th century. Hence the area is called Neustadt, the "new town".
In Neustadt mainly craftsmen lived and many of the streets still bear names from ancient times, for example Wollenweberstrasse (Ullvävaregatan) and Keßlerstrasse (potter's street). The street Wollenweberstrasse was originally called for Bedelerstrasse (beggars' street) in the 15th century. In contrast to wealthy Hildesheim, the residents here were poorer and hence the houses are also lower and smaller than in central Hildesheim.
The architecture is exciting and there is probably not a single house that does not lean alarmingly in one direction. Some houses have brick boilers as external walls and the few "newly built" houses from the 1950s are getting so old that they almost fit in, despite the lack of half-timbering. Some of the area's most beautiful houses are Waffenschmiedehaus (The gunsmith's house) from 1548 and the mason's house in turquoise half-timber with the inscription "Learn to know yourself".
The houses are close together, but green courtyards are hidden behind the houses. Today, Neustadt is a popular residential area with quiet streets, greenery and proximity to the Kalenberger Graben green area.
Michaeliskirche
Before we leave Hildesheim, we stop at the city's second world heritage site Michael's Church, built in the same period as the Mariendom cathedral and in the same Romanesque style. Michael's Church, like most of the city, was destroyed during the Second World War and was rebuilt in the 1950s. The church is known for its symmetrical design and harmonious proportions, reflecting the medieval ideal of geometry and spirituality. There is also a famous ceiling painting from the 13th century.
The church door is closed when we pass by and the church doesn't seem to open to visitors before 10am. Those of us who are heading south and are up with the rooster simply have to content ourselves with looking at the building from the outside. Which is not a shame, it should be added.
How do I get to Hildesheim?
Hildesheim is located in the middle of Germany in Lower Saxony, 3 Swedish miles south of Hanover.
We visited Hildesheim for one evening and one morning, but if you want to see all the sights, you need at least a full day during office hours, as everything closes early in the evening and opens late in the morning.
Accommodation tips: We stayed at the budget hotel Hey Lou, which was very affordable (under 100SEK 0/room including breakfast), was within walking distance to the central city and had fresh and clean rooms. Dogs were welcome.
Restaurant tips: We had dinner at Wirtshaus im Kneip, a German restaurant with classic and affordable dishes and good beer. Dogs were welcome.
Bonus tip: Christmas market in the market square
Every Christmas from the end of November to the 23rd of December, a large Christmas market is held here in the market square. Here you can find the traditional crafts and Christmas decorations, but also a large amount of food and drink. I dare to promise that here you will find both gluhwein and bratwurst and perhaps the occasional decorated gingerbread, in a fantastic setting.
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