Everglades - Florida's wildest natural experience

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The Everglades is Florida's most remarkable natural experience, renowned for its water-drenched landscapes and fascinating ecosystem. As the world’s largest tropical wetland, the Everglades and its national park are home to an impressive array of wildlife, including alligators, crocodiles, manatees, and the elusive panther among its main attractions.

The heart of the Everglades is Everglades National Park, but the vast ecosystem extends far beyond the national park's borders. From Lake Okeechobee in the north to the Gulf of Mexico in the south, the Everglades cover nearly 20% of Florida's total area.

The Everglades offers countless ways to explore its untamed beauty—feel the rush as an airboat skims across glistening waters, wander along a boardwalk suspended above the wetlands, or glide through serene coastal coves by kayak. But the Everglades is more than just a bucket-list destination. It’s a tapestry of places and moments that stay with you, long after the last alligator disappears into the horizon.

I have visited several parts of Everglades National Park, but also Sawgrass recreation park north of the national park – two completely different parts of the Everglades where you can experience nature both by boat and on foot.

River of grass

The Everglades is not a swamp but a slow-moving river—a "river of grass"—fed each year by the overflow from Lake Okeechobee. In the north, vast expanses of sawgrass stretch endlessly, while further south, the landscape transforms into dense mangrove forests, their tangled roots embracing scattered islands. From May to November, the rainy season replenishes the Everglades’ lifeblood, filling its vital water reserves. With the downpours come dramatic lightning storms, and fires, though frequent, are not just natural but essential to the ecosystem’s delicate balance.

Everglades wildlife

The dry winter season offers the perfect conditions to experience the Everglades’ abundant wildlife. Cooler temperatures and lower humidity make exploring more comfortable, while receding waters draw alligators, wading birds, turtles, and dolphins to the park’s deeper pools—bringing you closer to the heart of this extraordinary ecosystem.

Alligators (and crocodiles)

It is impossible to write about the Everglades without mentioning its most famous inhabitants - the alligators and the crocodiles. In Florida, it is estimated that there are over a million alligators, of which approximately 200.000 live in the Everglades.

The Everglades is the only area in the world where alligators and crocodiles live side by side. Although the alligators are significantly more numerous, it can be difficult to tell the two species apart. Alligators are slightly smaller, darker and have a blunter snout compared to crocodiles. Crocodiles, unlike alligators, also thrive in brackish water, so the chances of encountering a crocodile are greatest in the coastal areas of the southern Everglades.

Alligators are omnivores and eat pretty much anything they come across. However, the main diet consists of fish, birds and reptiles. For large parts of the day, the alligators lie still, but don't be fooled. Their attacks are lightning fast and they can jump several meters into the air without warning. One of the reasons why you are never allowed to have your hands outside the boat during the guided tours.

The very best place to see alligators is in Shark Valley. During our visit, we encountered them every two meters.

Birds

Like most wetlands, the Everglades is a paradise for bird enthusiasts. Home to XNUMX species, the park is dominated by majestic waders such as the elegant great egret and the striking roseate spoonbill. You rarely need to venture far from your car before the chorus of bird calls surrounds you. However, one bird to be wary of is the vulture, often seen circling certain parking lots. Though they have no interest in people, they are notorious for damaging cars—tearing at rubber seals and windshield wipers with their sharp beaks.

One of the most common birds in the park is the anhinga. The snake-necked bird is an excellent diver and can swim underwater to catch its prey. Most often you see them sitting with their wings spread out for drying.

If you spot a large bird of prey gliding gracefully overhead, it’s likely an osprey. These striking raptors build their impressive nests high atop tall trees or perched on nautical markers, like crowns surveying the landscape. Another iconic sight in the park is the pelican—the alligator of the bird world. Opportunistic and voracious, pelicans devour nearly anything they encounter. Though fish are their primary prey, they won’t hesitate to snatch up small animals and even other birds.

Birdlife thrives throughout the Everglades, but different species favor different habitats. Pelicans are most commonly seen near the coastal areas, while wading birds dominate the northern, shallower wetlands.

Dolphins and manatees

The Everglades’ most intelligent residents, bottlenose dolphins, follow the high tide into the brackish waters of Florida Bay. Around XNUMX of these graceful creatures inhabit the mangrove-dense region, and encountering a curious pod on a boat trip is a common and unforgettable experience.

The dolphins of the Everglades have developed a remarkable hunting technique found nowhere else. One member of the pod circles a school of small fish, stirring up the sandy bottom. As the trapped fish panic and leap toward what they believe is safety, they land instead in the waiting mouths of the surrounding dolphins—turning teamwork into a perfectly executed feast.

Sharing the same waters as the dolphins are the serene and endearing manatees—gentle giants that look like a blend of Moomin and Barbapapa. These peaceful mammals spend up to eight hours a day grazing on seagrass, drifting slowly between their favorite feeding grounds. Despite their size, they are surprisingly elusive in the Everglades' murky waters. On my two visits, I have yet to spot one or even the signature ripples left by their breaths. With only a few hundred adults remaining in all of Florida, each sighting is a rare and special encounter.

Snakes

Snakes have long been a part of the Everglades, from the agile green tree snakes to the venomous water moccasins. However, after a hurricane destroyed a snake farm in the XNUMXs, an invasive predator found its way into the wetlands—the Burmese python. One of the largest snakes in the world, it has since claimed dominance over the area, drastically impacting the ecosystem. Small mammals have borne the brunt of this invasion, with rabbits vanishing entirely and raccoon populations plummeting by XNUMX%.

One snake you should be particularly cautious of is the rattlesnake, which tends to inhabit the areas around hiking trails and visitor centers. I had a memorable encounter with a striking specimen near the ladies' restroom at Gulf Coast.

Places to visit in the Everglades

Everglades National Park

Everglades National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is the region's top tourist destination. Spanning an enormous area, it’s challenging to navigate between its highlights without your own vehicle. Experiencing the park in just one day is nearly impossible, so if time is limited, focus on one or two nearby spots to make the most of your visit.

The national park charges an entrance fee based on the number of visitors and vehicles. For those arriving in a standard car, the fee is $35 (2025), and the pass is valid for 7 days.

There are four visitor centers in the national park, with ranger-led programs and services.

• Shark Valley (northern part of the park)
• Guy Bradley (Flamingo) (southernmost part of the park)
• Ernest F. Coe (Homestead) (southwest part of the park)
• Gulf Coast (Everglades City) (northwestern part of the park)

We visited Shark Valley, Gulf Coastand walked the Anhinga trail at Ernest F. Coe during our visit to the park.

Shark Valley is undoubtedly the best spot to observe alligators and wading birds, offering an easy terrain perfect for cycling or walking. There’s also a popular 2-hour guided tour in an open minibus, which includes a visit to a towering observation platform with panoramic views.

Gulf Coast is the prime location for spotting dolphins and manatees. The tours are conducted on quiet, slow-moving boats, offering excellent opportunities to get up close to the animals. We took the Ten Thousand Islands Boat Tour, a 2-hour adventure that treated us to sights of osprey, playful dolphins, and graceful pelicans.

At Ernest F. Coe you can embark on an adventure along the Anhinga Trail, one of the park's true "must-see" spots. This charming 1.5 km boardwalk is perfect for the whole family, offering an up-close experience with alligators, turtles, and a variety of birds.

Sawgrass recreation park

Just outside Fort Lauderdale lies Sawgrass recreation park, an area on the edge of the national park yet still very much a part of the vast Everglades. From a distance, the landscape resembles a sprawling savannah, with tall, sharp blades of sawgrass stretching as far as the eye can see.

In addition to alligators, the Everglades is famously linked to airboats—flat-bottomed vessels with a large propeller mounted above the water. Powered by powerful (and noisy) engines, these boats glide effortlessly over marshlands and shallow waterways, making them ideal for navigating areas like Sawgrass Recreation Park, where traditional boats can't reach. Perfect for thrilling adventures in the wetlands, airboats offer a unique way to explore the untamed beauty of this landscape.

At Sawgrass Recreation Park, you can embark on a guided 40-minute airboat ride that brings you up close to the wildlife that thrives in this unique landscape. Alongside the airboat tours, the park features a small zoo where rescued animals are given a second chance at life. Here, you can encounter alligators of various sizes, while the park rangers’ engaging stories offer deeper insight into the Everglades ecosystem and the challenges it faces.

Riding an airboat at full speed through the Everglades is an exhilarating experience, almost as thrilling as encountering the wildlife itself. The roar of the powerful engine echoes like an airplane, and you’ll find yourself holding on tight as the boat races forward, leaning into sharp turns. Just be sure to secure your earplugs properly—otherwise, you might leave with more than just memories of the ride!

During the tour, we spotted a small alligator basking in the grass and several wading birds gracefully foraging nearby. Far above, almost blending into the vast sky, an osprey kept a vigilant watch over its territory.

Things to consider before visiting the Everglades

1. The Everglades is big. Avoid trying to explore the entire area in a single day. The distances are vast, and if you're rushed, you'll miss out on the opportunity to truly experience the wildlife.
2. Camping, glamping or staying in a hotel? The Everglades offers both camping and glamping options, but if you prefer the comfort of a nice hotel, the nearby cities are just a short drive away. It’s a bit more travel, but well worth it for a cozy stay.
3. Mosquito repellent and sunscreen are a must. Especially during the rainy season, there are many mosquitoes, and if you live in the park, they can become an annoying feature.
4. Make sure you have paid your entry ticket. You can buy an entrance ticket at some visitor centers in the national park, but not everywhere. Read more here about where and when you can do it. Sawgrass recreation park is outside the national park, so you don't have to pay admission here.
5. Bring a lunch bag and water. Dining options in the Everglades are limited, with most offerings being quick snacks rather than substantial meals. However, Sawgrass Recreation Park features a small, simple outdoor dining area where you can enjoy a bite in a more relaxed setting.

Want to read more about the Everglades?

• National Park Service official Everglades site.
• A really good map of Everglades to plan your visit.
• Official site for Sawgrass recreation park

Tips on organized tours to the Everglades

If you don't have your own car, you can book day trips to the Everglades and Sawgrass Recreation Park.

The airboat ride in Sawgrass recreation park was part of a press trip with Visit Lauderdale and  Air Canada, but as always, all thoughts and opinions are my own. The visit to Everglades National Park was part of a personal trip.