Right in the heart of the untouched nature on Hallandsåsen's southern ridge lies the Djurholmen hiking area, a place where the landscape surprises by reminding more of a northern bog than a Scanian plain. In the two nature reserves Djurholm bog and Århultsbäcken which is part of the walking area, you are offered contrasts with large views, gorges and experiences - and with unexpectedly few visitors!
Djurholmamossen nature reserve is one of Skåne's last raised bogs and here you can (somewhat unexpectedly) find both red deer and moose. Right next to it is Århultsbäcken nature reserve in a deep ravine with both small waterfalls and ruins of old buildings. We have visited the nature reserves in both winter and summer, two seasons that offer completely different experiences.
Århultsbäcken nature reserve
There is the smell of damp autumn leaves, morning frost and wet moss as we walk down the Århultsbäcken ravine. The ground is covered in a carpet of orange leaves and the December sun struggles to reach the tops of the beech forest. It feels more like autumn than winter, although it is quite chilly up here on the ridge.
The hiking trail slopes steeply towards the bottom of the gorge. It is so steep in parts that it is difficult to walk straight without holding on, even though we have hiking boots. But the path is worth the effort. At the bottom of the gorge, the stream flows playfully down steps of old logs and stones. In the summer, the unusual yellow marsh lily blooms down here and the wader single snipe comes here to breed. Now in winter the birdsong is absent, but the roaring song of the river drowns out all other sounds.
Århultsbäcken flows in a fissure in Hallandsåsen that emerged around 80 million years ago, around the same time as Skäralid in Söderåsen National Park was formed. The melting ice sheet 14 years ago then dragged a large amount of stones down into the gorge and created the staircase-like avenue that the stream needs to pass through on its way to the sea via Västersjön and Rönne å.
The ground by the stream is really wet and the slats that help us over the mud are frosted and slippery. In order not to fall, we shuffle forward as if on ice skates instead of lifting our feet, but we still fall. It is important to be careful. Down here in the gorge, we don't want to break any bones.
During the summers, there is plenty of vegetation here at the bottom of the gorge, and downy moss, white sedge and marsh sedge contribute to the thick lushness. Now in winter, however, there are not many traces left of the large flowers, at most we see dried ferns.
In the entire area around the gorge there are remains of farmers and squatters who lived here many years ago. We stop at several places and read the information boards about the ruins and their former owners. It was definitely not easy being a farmer here in the gorge. The land was difficult to cultivate, but they still tried to grow for household needs on small fields in the middle of the forest. It probably took some stubbornness and madness to survive here. Many of the beeches guarding the gorge are gone 100 years old. Have they lived and seen the struggle of the peasants?
Which hiking loop should I choose?
We walked it yellow trail (Old man happiness ladder) from the parking lot and broke off on it red trail (The moss path) as we approached the stream. From the red trail, you can take a detour on a green trail (Grönalid path), but the way over to the green trail requires wading in knee-deep water through the creek, which didn't feel appealing in the December cold. The largest waterfall, called The fall, is after the red trail. When the red trail crosses a road, you can choose to go left and follow the road back to the parking lot. A moderately difficult hike during the winter, which is probably much easier in drier weather.
Djurholmamossen nature reserve
Once upon a time, thousands of years ago, there was a lake here at Djurholmamossen. As the lake became shallower, white moss could take over the lake. White moss created an acidic environment that made it difficult for other plants to survive and when the white moss took over the entire lake, the transformation from lake to bog began to create the landscape we see today.
On our first attempt to visit the Djurholm bog in December, we turned around before we even saw the bog. A flooded hiking trail to that and with the branches lying under water makes it feel unpleasant to continue. On the second attempt in June, it goes all the better. It is still relatively wet on the hiking trails, but compared to six months earlier, it is much drier.
The Djurholm bog is a pristine bog where the entire landscape exudes the feeling of a northern bog. Around the bog is an undulating forest of pine and fir that is not the type of forest that I usually associate with Scania. Here, the winding paths are not as hilly as down by Århultsbäcken, but rather they are very easy to walk. Over the wettest parts and over the moss itself are stable wooden splinters, you just have to follow the planks to follow the red trail.
Little pink heather grows on the bog, but those are the only flowers we recognize. Very few plants can cope with the nutrient-poor environment out here on the bog. But despite the barren environment, the entire bog turns into a pink sea of flowering bell heather during late summer. Then it should also be possible to pick both gooseberries and cranberries here, but on this June day I see no sign of any such leaves or flowers. There should be plenty of moose here, but they probably stay away in the summer heat. You should probably come here in the early morning or late evening if you want to be lucky enough to see the king of the forest trudging with ease over the bog's shallow ground.
On a day like this we only hear the usual small birds, but in the spring you can hear eagles playing here on the bog. Djurholmamossen is one of the few places in Scania where you can see reindeer and although they are not common, they are here. Other birds you can meet on the high bog are black grouse, whorrel and crane. If the squirrel plays in the middle of the bog, the deer stays at the edge of the forest. But even if you hear them, they are rarely easy to see.
On two occasions it rustles in front of us as we walk on the red trail around the bog. At the first opportunity, I see the zigzag pattern on the viper's back and quickly back away. On the second occasion, it is an all-black snake that snakes away, most likely a snake. If you are walking with your dog or children on hot summer days, be a little vigilant on the path ahead so you avoid unpleasant surprises.
Which hiking loop should I choose?
We walked the driveway from the parking lot to the point where it red trail (The moss path) crossing the road, there we turned left and joined the trail. Follow the trail around the bog in a circular loop that takes you back to almost the same spot on the road. An easy-to-walk and family-friendly loop with picnic tables right by the bog.
Tips for the visit
- Djurholma walking area is two kilometers northeast of Ängelholm, on the southern ridge of Hallandsåsen.
- There is a relatively large car park which is well signposted. There is also a toilet and picnic table here.
- Don't forget to look at the map of the different hiking trails to find the route that suits you and your group. Download a map here.
- More information and tips can be found at The Scanian Landscape Foundation
Click on my reel below to see my visit to Djurholma Mossen on Instagram.
