There is an island where the colors of the rainbow are not quite enough. Here, lavender is a subdued shade and neon green is almost neutral. On Burano, just outside Venice, color has become a natural part of everyday life, characterizing both the facades of houses and the life between them.
When we started planning our days in Venice, there was really only one thing I really wanted to do. It wasn't the Doge's Palace, the Bridge of Sighs, or a gondola ride. I wanted to go to Burano – to see the origins of Venice, beyond the cruise ships, grand palaces, and crowds.
Burano is about 40 minutes from Venice by vaporetto. The island can be described as a miniature Venice, with canals, bridges, islands and boats. The difference lies in the expression. Where Venice can sometimes be experienced as grand, organized and almost beige, Burano is small, everyday and colorful. Here the visitor is greeted by simple fishermen's houses in bright colors – not marble and monuments.
According to legend, Burano was painted in bright colors so that fishermen could distinguish the island from a distance, even when the weather at sea was at its worst. A clever idea – although it is doubtful how much help the colors are on a really foggy day. To preserve the island's distinctive character, the colors of the houses are now strictly regulated. Anyone buying a house is given clear instructions about which colors are allowed. White is out of the question – here, cerise, lavender, turquoise and vermilion apply.
Burano has been a well-known name in fashion circles since the 16th century. Nowhere else in Europe was lace made of the same quality as here. The craft was passed down through generations and adorned both royal collars and cuffs – as well as the altar in Milan Cathedral. After the French Revolution, lace lost its position in fashion, and over time much of both knowledge and craftsmanship disappeared. Today it is unusual to see women sitting in the shade sewing lace along the streets. For those who want to see how the work was done, the city's lace museum remains.
Building grand stone masterpieces in the 18th century was not easy. Without CAD software or advanced strength calculations, the result was sometimes… leaning. The bell tower at the Church of San Martino was not leaning when it was finished, but the passage of time, rotting piles and the soft seabed took their toll. Today, the tower is secured and the tilt has been stopped, but in pictures it still looks like something went wrong with the camera.
In the small alleys, laundry dries on lines, fastened with clothespins and hung so that every inch of space is used. Elderly ladies and gentlemen walk home with grocery bags. One can't help but wonder if the splendor of color here makes people happier than the rest of us? White and clinically fresh is in any case an unknown concept on Burano.
In the small harbor, a fisherman cleans his boat after the day's catch. Burano still has a few hundred active fishermen, but there are significantly fewer than in the past. Most of the catch is sold at the Rialto market in central Venice, an institution that has existed since the 11th century. But the number of fish vendors is steadily decreasing, as the locals leave the city. It is simply more profitable to sell tourist trinkets than fresh fish.
We walk over the island's small bridges, past ornate gates and bells. There are tourists here too, but not in the same numbers as in central Venice. Cruise passengers rarely make it to Burano, and most weekend travelers focus on the city's main attractions. A boat trip to the island is simply not on the agenda – which is lucky for us.
Surrounded by the green Adriatic Sea, we see snow-capped mountains to the northwest and the towers of Venice to the south. Burano is a small, unique place, and I leave the island with a smile. At least color can make me happier.
How do I get to Burano?
The easiest way to get to Burano is by vaporetto line 12, which departs from Fondamente Nove in northern Venice approximately once every half hour. Line 12 takes 40 minutes and also passes by the glassblowing island of Murano – a perfect stop on the way back to Venice. You should also be able to take line 14 from San Zaccaria, but we didn't test it.
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