In the heart of southwest France lies Périgord, a region rich in history, culture and gastronomy. Medieval castles and villages are lined with vineyards and everywhere you can see the traces of a long and exciting history. We drove around the region around the Dordogne River and stopped in several cozy medieval villages, of which Beaumont-du-Périgord was one of them.
A sleepy morning walk
The sun has just begun to warm the narrow alleys when we park the car on the outskirts of Beaumont-du-Périgord. The air is filled with screams from the tower sails sweeping down towards the impressive church and from the market square the rotisserie cart spreads a delicious aroma of grilled meat that makes your stomach rumble. Even though the village should be full of life and activity at this time, it almost feels as if the whole place is still asleep. No tour buses. No commerce. Just a village slowly waking up.
We begin our visit at the market square. On market days, you will find an abundance of fresh vegetables, cheeses and herbs, and people chatting to each other. Today, it is quiet as the first cafes are slowly opening. The covered arches around the square provide nice shade and an opportunity to sit down for a coffee or croissant, while observing life in the village.
The arcades surrounding the square are one of the village's most characteristic features and give the square a cozy feel. This morning, only the delicatessen is open, but it beckons with signs selling foie gras and other local Périgord specialties.
A protected village
Beaumont-du-Périgord is beautifully situated on a hill in a rolling landscape and is often called the “first English royal bastide". Bastides are relatively unique to southwestern France and are characterized by a well-planned medieval town with a grid-like street network, central squares with arcades and rustic walls. Unlike most bastides which were built as a square, Beaumont is shaped like an H – designed by King Edouard I in memory of his father, Henry III. Of the original 16 gates in the wall, only the Luzier gate remains today.
Our walk continues towards the fortified church of Saint-Laurent-et-Saint-Front, built at the end of the 13th century in Gothic style. The two defensive towers with loopholes tell of a time when life here was marked by war and the church had more functions than just services and weddings. The gate to the church is filled with little stories of everything from everyday life to fantasy animals – details that still make visitors stop.
Outside the church we are met by a British couple who want to say hello to our little pug Lilibet. It turns out they also have a pug back home in England, and Lilibet takes full advantage of the situation – with kisses and small talk it becomes a cordial meeting that makes both us and the Brits smile.
As we walk further through the village, we notice how well-ordered the village is. All the streets are parallel and intersect at almost perfect right angles. The sand-colored houses are decorated with roses, boxwood and cute shutters. Small alleys lead to hidden corners with medieval charm. Worn doors. A perfume shop. Beautiful mailboxes. Blooming oleanders.
Hiking trails and nature trails
For those who want to hike, there are over 100 kilometers of marked nature trails around the village, perfect for short or longer walks. The landscape around Beaumont is rolling and green, with forests, fields and open views stretching to the horizon. Even a short morning walk gives the feeling of being close to nature in this beautiful part of France. We take a short detour outside the wall, but a cat shows its displeasure with our dog's presence, so we turn back. A cat's morning habits are not to be messed with.
We return to the car with a freshly baked baguette with brie and air-dried ham under our arms, ready for a picnic lunch in the sunshine. Although Beaumont-du-Périgord is not a large medieval village, it is a lively village with a lot of history and almost completely free of tourists. A chance to experience the Dordogne as it should be experienced – at your own pace.
Visit Beaumont-du-Périgord
Beaumont-du Périgord is located in southwestern France, 150 kilometers east of Bordeaux. A car is more or less a must to experience the region.
Do you want to read more about France or Dordogne? Here you will find more articles about castles, cities, nature and hiking.
Read more from the region on the page The Perigord Guide.
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